DARTS

DARTS

These are used to shape a flat piece a fabric to fit the curves of a figure .

The standed dart is triangular in shape that is wide at one end pointed

at the other. Double pointed darts are wide in the middle and pointed at both

ends . They are used at the waist line of one piece dresses . A dart may

sometimes be stitched only path way . The un stitched path , they looks some

what like a tuck . Such darts are called dart tucks .

Darts may be decorative functional or both . Any dart placed in an

unusual manner or stitched on the right side of the garment can be set to the

decorative . Usually these darts are very small . Functional darts are intended

for fitting the body curves -bust , hip , shoulder and elbow . They should point to

the fullest part of the curve , but must not extend as far as the curve . Shows

the marking for bust , darts and waist line in a blouse front pattern .

INTRODUING FULLNESS

INTRODUCING FULLNESS

Fullness is introduced in to garments for various reasons such as

1.To give good shape and proper fit to the garment .

2.To allow freedom of movement and comfort to the weaver and

3 .To make the garment look attractive


Darts , tucks , pleats , flare and gathers are some of the devices of Introducing

Fullness .

OVER CAST FINISH

OVER CAST FINISH :---This is a common method used for both thic and thin

materials that fray easily. It is useful for narrow seams

and also for seam that receive hard wear or extra strain .

Such as armholes and waist lines . After making the plain

seam pressed the seam open and worked over casting

stitches over the raw edges of the two seam allowances

separately . Avoid tight stitches in order to prevent edges

for puckering on seams of armholes or yokes press the seam

allowances to one side and overcast the two edges together .

In stead of overcasting blanket stitch or zigzag

machining can be done on the raw edges of the seam allowances .

BOUND SEAM EDGE FINISH

BOUND SEAM EDGE FINISH :---In this method the seam is pressed open

and bias binding attached to the both seam edges . For this fabrics seam


allowances could be pressed together and bias binding attached to it .

HERRING BONE FINISH SEAM

HERRING BONE FINISH SEAM :---This finish neatens the raw edges and also holds down the

turning , making the seam flats . This is suitable for heavy

materials like flannels . After pressing the seam open

herring bone stitches are worked on the two raw edges

catching the garment .

DOUBLE STITCH FINISH

DOUBLE STITCH FINISH :--After making a plain seam worked an extra line of stitching

about 1/4 from the raw edge . This can be done done for a plain

un-finished seam or pinked seam . This is not suitable for

bulky fabrics .

EDGE STITCH FINISH

EDGE STITCH FINISH :---The seam is stitched and pressed open . Then turn under 1/4 "

on each seam edge and top stitch close to the fold with out

catching garment . This finish is used on unlined coats , jackets

where a wide seam allowances is available . This is a bulky finish

and is not suitable for deeply curved seam .

PINKED FINISH

PINKED FINISH :---This is a quick method and is not bulky but is not a

suitable finish for fabrics that rawal badly . After stitching

plain seam trim off about 1/8 " of the seam allowance using

the pinking shears . Then press the seam open .

SEAM FINISHES

SEAM FINISHES

Seam finishes are made to prevent fraying of the

raw edges and does make the seams more durable . They also

provide a neat apearance to the inside of the garments . There

are several types of seam finishes in use .

MANTUAMAKER'SEAM :---This is also a ridged seam which is not suitable for bulky fabrics .

keeping rightsides facing , tack the garment on the seamline . Trim

one seam edge to 1/8 " from the tacking line and the other

seam edge to 3/8 " . Make a 1/8 " turning on the wide side

so that this edge nearly touches the narrow seam allowance . Now make

the folded edge line along the original tacking line . Machine

stitch or hem through all thickness and remove tacking .

FRENCH SEAM :---This is a ridged seam and is used on

transparent light weight fabrics especially on baby clothes and

delicate blouses . It is a neat durable finish as the raw edges are

completely enclosed . However it is time consuming and too bulky

when used on thick material . Do not use this on curves such as

armholes and yokes . The two pieces of material to be joined or

placed together with wrong sides facing work a row of stitching

1/8" out side .the seam line towards the raw edges . After stitching

trim the seam allowances to less than 1/8 " .Press the seam and

turn the work so that the right sides are together . Crease the first row

of the stitching , so that it is directly on the edge .Pin or tack and

stitch along the seam line about 1/8 " from the fold . In this seam

care should be taken to see that there are no ravels visible on the

right side .

FLAT FELL SEAM :---This is a flat durable seam used on men's sports shirts ,

children's cloths and pyjamas Place the pieces to the

joined wrongsides facing , and stitch on the seam line

press both seam allowances together in the same direction and trim the under

seam allowance to 1/8" and the upper one to 3/8 " . Turn under

the raw edge of the wide seam allowance So as to make a

smooth fold 1/8 " wide . keeping this fold in position with one

hand tack the fold down flat to the garment machine stitch

close to the folded edge on the right side . of the garment . The

right side of the seam will show two rows of stitching

and wrong side will show only one row of stitching . .

LAPPED SEAM :---This seam is commonly used for joining gathered section to a straight

edge as in a yoke .Take the part of the garment which is to be laid

on top and turn its seam allowances to wrong side . Place this piece on

top of the second piece right sides facing and matching the folded

edge .

DOUBLE TOP STITCH :---In this two extra lines of stitching is done on the right side of the

garment , one on either side of the seam line , after the seam allowances

are pressed open .

SINGLE TOP STITCHING :---Stitch a plain seam press the seam edges to one side and work a

row of machining . Close to the seam line on the right side catching

the seam allowances.

COMMON SEAMS

PLAIN SEAM :---This is the most widely used seam because it is easy to make

requires less time . It is used on all types of fabrics except on

very transparent fabrics and is especially suitable for firm fabrics that

do not rawal and will not be subjected to hard and frequent launder

on shirts , coats , petticoats , blouses etc . Plain seam is especially

used on under arm seams and armhole seams .

To make this seam place the two pieces of fabrics

to be joined together right sides facing matching the seam lines

stitch the seam exactly on the seam line and press the seam open .

If the fabric is fine both the seam allowances can be pressed to

one side .

SEAMS AND SEAM FINISHES

A seam is a method of joining two or more pieces of materials

together by a row of stitching . In garment construction one of the major steps

is the joining of different sections by seams . the purpose of

most of these seams is purely functional and we make all them

constructional seams . e. g :-- shoulder seam , slide seam , under

armhole seam , waist line seam etc ... these should be as

inconspicuous and flat as possible . However there are some

seams which are used for decorative purposes ; these are

made conspicuous . In order to give the garment design

and line .

TYPE OF SEAMS AND THEIR CHOICE :----

THE COMMONLY USED SEAMS ARE :---

1. PLAIN SEAMS :---

2. TOP STITCHED SEAM

3 .FLAT FELL SEAM

4 .FRENCH SEAM

5 .MANTUAMAKER' S SEAM

The type of seam to be on a garment will depend on various factors .

1 .Texture and durability of the fabric : when working with a

heavy fabric you should avoid bulky seams like french seam .

2 . design and use of the garment : when making a voice

sports shirts or strong seam like flat fell seam should be used .

3 Shape of the seam : seams may be straight or curved .

straight seams may be in vertical , horizontal or slanting directions on

the dress . When joining curved edges .a plain seam will give a

better finish than french seam and other types of seams .

4 Location of the seam in the garment seams in parts

of the garment which may get stretched during body movement

will have to be more durable than others .
. .

WHIPPING

WHIPPING:---This stitch is similar to over hand stitch and is used to secure

too finished or folded edges together or for apply lace or patch . Sometimes

it is used to finish edges of hand kerchiefs . Whipping produces slanting stitches ,

taking stitches over the edge with needle in a straight position .

OVER CASTING

OVER CASTING :---This is a slanting stitch used on raw edges either single or

double to prevent them ravelling . Keep the size and the

spacing of stitches uniform .

BACK STITCH

BACK STITCH :---The back stitch is strong and is sometimes substituted for

machine stitching . Stitches should be about 1/ 16 " to 1/8 "

long on the top side .To make the back stitch push needle

up through the material at a point on the stitching line about 1/ 8 "

from its right end . Take a stitch inserting the needle 1. 8 " back

of the thread at the beginning it out an equal distance . Infront of

the thread repeat repeat uniform in size and fairly firm .

SLIP STITCH ;---This is used for hems , facings or foldings where invisibility is more

important than strength . Passen the thread beneath the hem bring

the needle out through the edge of the fold take a tiny stitch in

the garment directly beneath the point where the thread leave the fold

Now insert the needle in the hem , slip it along inside the fold and

bring it out again but half inch away repeat the stitch .

HEMMING

HEMMING :---This is used to secure down a folded edge of material . It is most

commonly used for hems . Hemming appears as small slanting

stitches on the wrong side and on the right side the stitches should

be fine and spaced close enough to hold the hem securely .In

place yet far enough apart to be inconspicious from the right side of

the garment .

PERMANENT STITCHES

1. RUNNING STITCH :---This is the simplest form of hand stitch which is

used for permanent sewing hand made seams and

tucks , gathering , shirring , quilting , and mending can be

done with this stitch it is similar to even basting ,

but the stitches are smaller . The stitches should be

straight , fine and evenly spaced and about 1/6 " to

1/8 " in length . Pass the needle through the fabric

several times before pulling it through .

SLIP BASTING

SLIP BASTING :---This is most often used when matching seams in checked and striped

fabrics. This is also used to bast seam lines that have been

fitted from the right side of the garment . Fold one seam edge under

and pin it over the other seam edge along the stitching line . Now

bring the needle up very close to the folded edge through the three

layers of cloth as close to that point as possible go down through the

single layer , and come up again one fourth to 1/2 " away through

the three layers as before . Continue this way . Stiches on the wrong

side will be slightly diagonal . Only very small stitches will appear

on the right side . When you have finished , you will be able to

open out the seam flat and stitch it as a plain seam .

There is another method of slip basting in

which no stitches are visible on the right side . In this method the

needle is first slipped through the fold of the upper seam edge

for a distance of about 1/4 " . Then brought out at the edge of

the fold . A short stitch is now taken through the single layer

along the seam line and the needle .once again slipped into

the fold .

DIAGONAL BASTING

3.DIAGONAL BASTING :---This stitch is used when several layers

of fabric are held securely . Work stitches through the material

at right angles to the fabric . So that a diagonal or slanting

stitch is made on the upper side and a small vertical stitch on the

upper side . The stitches are made about one fourth ( 1/ 4 " to

1 " ) to one inch apart .

UNEVEN BASTING

2. UNEVEN BASTING :---In this the length of stitches on the upper side is at

least twice that on the underside . Use this type of basting as a guide line .

It is usually made through a single layer of fabric . The size of the stitch on

the upper side is usually 1 /4 ".

TEMPARARY STITCHES

 




TEMPORARY STITCHES :--

1.EVEN BASTING :---In this the stitches are of equal length about 1/4 " on

both sides of the material . This is used for tacking seams and other details

which must be held securely .

BASIC HAND STITCHES

Basic stitches are divided into constructive and decorative stitches.

Constructive stitches are for-Thar divided into temporary and permanent

stitches .

TEMPORARY STITCHES :---Tacking or basting is a temporary stitch

used for holding two or more layers or material together before the

permanent stitches are made . Usually this stitch is horizontal and

is worked from right to left . For tacking use a contrasting color

thread so that it can be easily seen and removed .The length

of stitches will very depending on the weight of the fabric and

how securely the pieces have to be held together . There are

several types of basting stitches , four of which are explained

below .

SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENTS

HEMMER FOOT :---This is used for turning up and stitching a narrow hem .

RUFFLER :---This attachments is capable of tacking uniform gathered or

pleated frills and will take apply frills to another section at the same

time . It is useful in making children 's garments .

CLOTH GUIDE :---This is a useful in guiding fabric for uniform stitching .
CORDING FOOT OR ZIPPER FOOT :---This is designed used for

applying cording into seams and for application of zipper .

BINDER :---This is used for applying ready made or self made bias

binding to a straight or curve edge .

TUCKER :--This is used for making uniform tucks from 1/8" to 1 "

in width .

GATHERING FOOT :---This attachment gathers fabric as a dis stitched

with the fullness locked in every stitch .

FEED COVER PLATE :---This used to cover the feed dog while doing

machine embroidery and darning .

MATERIAL NOT FEEDING CORRECTLY :--1.Stitch regulator set too close to ' o ' point .

2 .Dirt under needle plate near feed dog .

3 .Incorrect presser foot pressure .

4 .bent presser foot .

MACHINE RUNS HEAVILY :----

1.Lack of oil .

2.Thread wound round wheel or treadle bearings.

3.Belt too tight

4.Bobbin winder pressed down .

5 .Thread jammed in shuttle race .

6 .Gummed oil or dirt on bearings .

LOWER THREAD BREAKING :---

1.Poor thread .

2.Lower tension too tight .


3.Bobbin case threaded wrongly .

4.Sharp edge on needle plate .

5.Bobbin wound too full or uneven .

6. Dirt in bobbin case .

FABRIC PUCKERING :---

1. ONE OR BOTH TENSIONS TOO TIGHT .

2. STITCH TOO LONG FOR MATERIAL BEING SEWN .

3. BLUNT NEEDLE .

NEEDLE BREAKING :--

1.Incorrect size of needle for thread and fabric .

2.Needle blunt .

3.Pulling of material while stitching .

4.Presser foot incorrectly set .

5 .Crossing a thick seam using too small needle .

STAGGERED STITCHES :---

1.Too little pressure on presser foot .

2.Take up spring weak ,broken or missing .

UNEVEN STITCH LENGTH :---

1.Incorrect presser foot pressure .

2.Feed dog dirty or worn out .

MINOR TROUBLES AND THEIR CAUSES

TANGLED THREAD AT THE BEGINNING :---

1. Bobbin too full .

2. Bobbin set in wrong direction .

3. Under thread not drawn up .

4. Both threads not pulled back under the presser foot .

5. Machine not properly oiled and cleaned .

SKIPPED STITCHES :---

1. Needle bent .

2 .Needle set with long groove turned to wrong side .

3. Needle inserted too high or too low in the needle bar .

4 .Needle threaded from the wrong side .

5. Needle too small .

6 . Excess oil on shuttle .

UPPER THREAD BREAKING :---

1. Poor thread .

2 .Machine in correctely threaded .

3 .Needle set on wrong side .

4 .Needle too fine for thread .

5 . Needle threaded from the wrong side .

6 .Upper tension too tight .

7 .Sharp edge on needle plate hole or suhttle .

8. Thread take -up spring broken .