Monday, March 22, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 25 . C H I L D ' S B O D I C E B L O C K




CHILD 'S BODICE - BLOCK


MEASUREMENTS :---

1. Length of back --from nape of the neck to hollow of the back .

2. Round chest = 22 "

3 . cross back = 9 " ( shoulder )

Size of paper :---

Length = 9"

width =11 " ( 1/2 round chest )

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :---

Mark the corners A B C D .

A B and C D = Width of the bodice block .

A C and B D = Length of the bodice block .

BACK AND FRONT :---

Fold or divide the paper width wise into half for half front

and half back block .

E E1 Armhole line or chest line is 1/2 length = 4 1/2 "

F F1 Cross back line length = 2 1/4 "

G G1 shoulder is 1/8 length = 1/8 "

BACK BODICE BLOCK :-----

1. On the shoulder line G G1 take + 1 = 1/3 of AB + 1/2 " or

half cross back for cross back . Do the same from E .

Mark M 1 . Join H to H 1 with a line .

2 . BACK NECK :---2. ( a ) Width = 1/2 G H .

Measure it from A and mark the point as I .

( b ) Depth = 1/2 " below A on the AC line mark A 1 .

( c ) Join A 1 and I with a slight downward curve .

SHOULDER :--- Join I M with a straight line for the

shoulder , and extend 1/2 " out from H mark H 2 .

4 .ARMHOLE :----Curve , join H 2 and J with a

curve .

5 .SIDE LINE :---Go in 1/2 " from J , and mark

it as K . Join J and K for the side seam .

FRONT BODICE BLOCK :----

1 . NECK - ( a ) width = 1/2 GH . m easure it from B

and mark the point L .

(b ) . Depth up to crossback line F 1 .

( c ) . Join L and F 1 with a deep downword curve .

( 2 ) SHOULDER :---- ( a ) Join L H with a straight line

( b ) measure I and H 2 along L H line for the

front shoulder . Mark it M there .

I H 2 = L M .

( 3 ) ARMHOLE :----( a) From M drop a perpendicular

on the chest line .

( b ) Take 1/4 " from the perpendicular on the cross front line and

mark it N .

( C ) Join M , N and J with a deep inward curve .

( 4 ) SIDE :---Take 1/2 " from J and call this point o .

Join J and O with a straight line for the side seam .

CHILD 'S SLEEVE BLOCK :---

MEASUREMENTS :---

LENGTH = 4 " to 5 "

WIDTH = 11 "

Fold one paper into half , keeping one fold on the top .

Mark A B C D .

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :---

1 . P oint E from B is 1/4 of one length of the bodice - block .

2 .Draw a guiding line from A to E .

3 .Join A E with an outer curve 3 /4 " from center for the back .

4 .The front of the sleeve crosses at the center of the guiding

line and goes 1/4 " in and 1/4 " out on either side ( as

shown in the diagram ) .

SKIRT :----

Skirt length = full length - waist length

A B = width of the material or 1/2 ch + 4 "

A C = skirt length + 2 "

A B = CD

SEAMS AND PROCESS :---

1 .P lain seams at sides and shoulder .

2 . Hem at bottom and sleeves bottom also .

3 . Neck should finish with collar or false hem or piping .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :----Printed , Nylon , cambric , checked etc .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :--- 1 body length + sleeve length + 2 skirt

lengths .


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