Sunday, March 28, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 29 .B U S H - S H I R T














MEASUREMENTS :---

CHEST = 30 "

LENGTH = CH - 4 " = 26 "

SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/3 CH

FULL SHOULDER = 1/2 CH - 1 "

NECK = 1/3 CH + 3 " = 13 "

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :-----

0 - 1 = Full length - 1/2 " = 25 1/2 "

1 - 2 = 1 1/2 " for bottom folding

0 - A = 1/12 ch

2 - B = 1/12 ch

3 - 0 = 1/4 ch

3 - 4 = 1/4 ch + 2 1/2 " or 3 "

5 , 4 ; 5 , 2 straight line

6 - 0 = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

7 - 6 = straight line

8 - 6 = 1 1/2 " down

9 - 7 = 1 /24 ch = 1 "

10 - 0 = 1/12 ch = 2 1/2 "

0 - 11 = 1/12 ch  = 2 1/2 "

10 - 8 = shoulder shape .

9 , 8 , 4 front armhole shape .

11 - 10 = front neck shape

BACK SIDE :---

0 - 1 = Length = length - 1 1/2 "

1 - 2 = 1 1/2 " for bottom folding .

3 - 0 = 1/4 ch - 1 1/2 "

3 - 4 = 1/4 ch + 2 1/2 "

5 - 4 = straight line .

6 - 0 = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

7 - 6 = 1/4 " down

8 - 0 = shape

8 - 4 = back armhole shape

5 - x = 1/2 " inside

4 - x = side shape

SHOULDER : -----

0 - 1 = 1/8 ch + 1/2 " = 4 "

1 - 2 = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

0 , 2 = 3 , 1

2 - 3 = straight line

4 - 0 = 1/ 12 ch

5 - 0 = 1 / 12 ch

6 - 2 = 1 1/2 " down

7 - 3 = 1/4 " up

6 - 4 = shoulder shape

5 - 4 = neck shape

x center of 3 , 1 .

7 , x , 1 curve shape .

SLEEVES :----

0 - 1 = Length

1 - 2 = 1 1/2 " for bottom folding

0 -3 = 1/4 ch

0 , 3 , 4 , 2 square

4 - 5 = 1 1/2 " up

6 - 3 = 1/ 12 ch + 1/2 " = 3 "

6 - 0 = back armhole shape

6 - 7 = 1 1/2 " inside

6 , 7, 0 = front armhole shape

6 , 8 , 4 = side shape

COLLAR :---

0 - 1 = 1/8 Ch + 1/2 " = 4 "

2 - 0 = 1/2 Neck + 1/2 " = 7 "

2 - 3 = straight line

4 - 1 = 1/2 neck + 1/4 " = 6 3/4 "

2 - 4 = side shape

x center of 4 -1

0 - 5 = 1/4 " down

2 - 5 = shape

4 , 6 = 1/4 " up

4 , x , 1 shape .

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 2 8 . P L A I N B L O U S E

















MEASUREMENTS :---

chest = 36 "

length = 15 " ---> 1/2 ch - 3 "

shoulder = 1/6  ch+ 1 1/2 "

waist loose = ch - 4 " or 6 "

sleeve length = 1/4 ch

sleeve bottom =1/4 ch + 2 "

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :----

BACK SIDE :----

A A 1 = Length + 1/2 "

A B = 1/2 shoulder or 1/6 ch + 1 1/2 "

A C = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

A B = C C1

B B1 = 1/4 ch + 1 "

B B1 = A 1 D

Join B 1 D

D D1 3 /4 " for side shape

D A 1 Center X for dart . dart width should be 3/4 " .

A E 1 = 1 / 12 ch + 1/2 "

C E = 3 / 4 " down

join E E 1 :


A F = 2 "

Join E B 1 in armhole shape .

join E 1 F for neck .

FRONT SIDE :---

A G = 1/8 ch

join E 1 G front neck

join E B 1 front armhole shape .

A 1 H 3/4 " down .

join D 1 H with curve shape .


DARTS  :---FRONT  SIDE  :---

O R   = 1/4  chest

G A1   center  --- H :-- H H1  =length = 3"
                                              width  = 1/2"

A1D    center  --- X :-- X X1  = length  = 3 1/2"
                                               width  = 1"

B1D    center  --- N :-- N N1  = length  = 3"
                                               width   = 1/2" 


B1M    =  2 1/2 "---     M M1  = length  = 2 1/2 "
                                                 width   = 1/4" 

BACK  SIDE  DARTS  :--    

Y Y1  = length  = 5"
             width   = 1/2"

SLEEVES :----

A A 1 = sleeve length + 1 1/2 "

A B = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

A A 1 = B B1

B C = 1/12 ch + 1/2 "

join A C with front and back sleeve shapes .

A 1 D = 1/2 Sleeve bottom + 1/2 " :

join C D

SEAMS AND PROCESS :-----













1 . Plain seams at sides and shoulder .

2 . Hem at sleeve bottom and blouse waist .

3 .Neck should finished with false hem or piping .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :-----

Printed , poplin , any soft material .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :----

2 full lengths + 1 sleeve length + 3 "

DRESS MAKING - 27 .C H I L D ' S B L O U S E



C H I L D ' S BLOUSE

MEASUREMENTS :----

CHEST = 2 4 "

LENGTH = 1 4 " ; 1/2 chest + 2 "

SHOULDER = 1/2 ch - 1" = 1 1 "

SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/4 ch

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES:----

BACK SIDE :----

A B = Full length

A C = 1/4 ch - 1 "

C C 1 = 1 /4 ch + 1 1/2 "

A D = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

D D 1 straight line

A E = 1/12 ch

D E 1 = 1/2 " down from D

E E 1 join

A F = 1 " back neck

E F join with round shape for back neck .

join C 1 E 1 with back armhole shape .

A G = 1/3 chest + 1 "

C 1 G 1 = C G

G 1 H = 1 "

B I = 1/4 ch + 2 "

join C 1 H I with side shape .

FRONT :----

A F 1 = 1/ 8 ch

C 1 E 1 front armhole shape

E F 1 join with round shape

SLEEVES :----

A B = 1/2 shoulder

A C = 1/4 ch + 1 " = 8 "

A E = 1/12 ch

join E B with front and back sleeve shapes .

C F = 1 "

join E F with side shape .

SEAMS AND PROCESS :----

1 . Join sides and shoulders with plain seam .

2 . hem at bottom and sleeves .

SUITABLE CLOTH :---

Poplin , polyester , cotton e t c ...
















DRESS MAKING - 26 . B O Y ' S P Y J A M A

                  BOY ' S PYJAMA


            
            
           
             
             
             

BOY ' S PYJAMA
MEASUREMENTS :---

SEAT = 18 "

LENGTH = SEAT + 4 " = 22 " ( WAIST TO BOTTOM )

PAPER MEASUREMENTS :----

length = 22 " + 3 " = 25 " ( 1 1/2 " waist fold
1 1/2 " bottom fold )

width = ( 1/3 seat + 3 " ) = 9 " on fold

Take 24 " length , 18 " width of paper and fold center

in the width wise , keep the fold in the left side .

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :----

FRONT SIDE :---

A A1 = 1 1/2 " for fold

A 1 B = Full length

B B1 = 1 1/2 " for bottom fold

A C = 1/3 Seat + 1 "

C C1 = 1/3 seat + 1/12 seat

A D = 1/3 seat

D D1 = straight line

A C = D D1

D 1 X = 1/6 seat up

join C 1 X D with curve shape .

B 1 E = 1/3 seat + 1 "

E E 1 = 1 1/ 2 "

join C 1 E 1 E with curve shape .

BACK SIDE :----

D H = 1 " up

A H join .

C 1 H join .

C 1 F = 1 " outside .

E F 1 = 1 " out side .

F H = join with curve shape .

F F 1 join with curve shape .

SEAMS AND PROCESS :----


1 . Join front and back with run and fell seam .

2 . stitch center with run and fell seam .

3 . fold and hem at waist and bottom .

SUITABLE CLOTH :----

lon cloth , poplin , terrycloth , white cotton or straiped cloths .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :---

TWO LENGTHS