Cross stitch

KUTCH WORK:---Kutch work is a unique type of embroidery which when done correctly adds to the beauty of the material. The designs are mostly geometrical in shape like square, circular etc... The design consists of an outline stitch done in a systematic way. WORKING METHOD:---Start by pulling out the needle at A, proceed from A to B picking up little of the material further from the design line. Proceed from B to C and C to D and then to E taking the needle from below the line AB . Work in similar mannar in alfabatical order to complete the motief. care must be taken to pas the needle below the worked thread where ever the three sides of the square have been completed. INTERLACING STITCH:----Bring the needle up at any corner of the square.Proceed from A to B then B to C by interlacing the thread in between the two crosses of the corner of the square then from C to D. Proceed from D to E from the middle square by passing this thread below the outline thread at E. in this way complete the whole design by interlacing the corners of this square.
N. B :--Care must be taken to pass the thread below the outline thread and every corner and then the fourth thread which will be the last thread should pass below the outline thread and above the interlacing thread picking up the third interlacing thread which will be at the bottom and above the outline thread. If the outline is not done correctly, the interlacing thread will not get interlaced and will come out of the outline.
Kutch work is mostly done for any type of garments , accessaries and household articles etc....

APPLIQUE WORK:---It is a decorative embroidery done by laying pieces of fabric on a background fabric and stitching them in place.. Its appeal lies in the colourful effect that can be obtained by using a variety of fabric both printed and plain to form designs. In most cases embroidery stitches on the applique pieces are used to define and accent the design. Almost any material can be used for the background , but the background and applique pieces should be off some what of similar thickness and texture. The cloth used for applique should have a firm weave so that a clean edge is left after they are cut. The thread used for applique should of the same colour as the pieces and should strong. WORKING METHOD:---Mark the complete design first on the background fabric.Then make a pattern piece for each part of the design and mark 1/4" seam allowance on it. Next machine stitch on the design outline for a neat turning edge. for a smooth edge clip the curved edges and corners, then turning seam allowances just inside machine stitching and press.Tack the applique pieces in place on a design on the background fabric and slip stitch or hem with tiny stitches.If a decorative edging is desired it can be top stitched in machine or contrasting colour by buttonhole stitch, chain stitch or zig zag stitch on machine. Applique work is used on dresses, sarees , handbags, cushion cover, bedsheets, pillow cases, napkin, tray cloth, table cloth almost on any thing.

SHADOW WORK:---Shadow work is another kind of embroidery which adds beauty to the material. It consists of covering the design with herring bone stitch on the wrong side of a transparent material so that the colour of the working thread shows through on the right side.
WORKING METHOD:----Work from left to right along the double lines inserting the needle on the upper line a little to the right taking a small stitch to the left right with the thread below the needle. Insert the needle on the lower line a little to the right and take a small stitch to the left with the thread above the needle. Continue in this way keeping the stitch evenly spaced and picking up a small amount of material each time.
In shadow work herring bone stitch must
be done very closely. shadow work must be done on sheer materials like voile, organdie. shadow work must be done on also on nylon, Mulmul, georgatte etc... Designs with long narrow leaves are suitable. Great care must be taken in disposing off the biginning and the ending of the embroidery thread, Take them in a herring bone stitch. shadow work is best suitable for sarees, punjabi shirts and frocks.

MIRROR WORK:---It is a tradition which has been carried among the lambadas who stitch their garments mostly by mirror work.In this work the proper placement of the mirror and the use of suitable colour threads and stitches are of vital importance to give all the glamour and beauty to the dress. Usually brightly coloured threads and a dark background are chosen.

1. WORKING METHOD:---Trace the outline of the mirror and work either stem or chain stitch on the outline. Later interlace the thread through every stitch. Fix the mirror well inside the stitches and then pull the thread very carefully so that it is evenly pulled.Fasten the mirror with buttonhole stitches. Finish the work on the wrong side by means of two or three back stitches and cut the thread.
2. WORKING METHOD:----Keep the mirror in position and fix up to the cloth by means of stitches which should come in the shape of a star.This is the outline stitch. Now on this outline stitch do either cretan stitch or herring bone stitch by taking the threads of the outline stitch from top and the cloth from below. the stitches are worked in two parallel lines. Finish the whole mirror and bring the needle out on the wrong side and finish by means of two or three back stitches. This method is more popular and lasting as the mirror do not come out due to repeated washing of the garment.
   
3. Mirror work is a unique type of embroidery and when it is worked with other embroidery stitches like kutch work, and colourful threads it stands out more. usually it is worked on punjabi shirts, sarees, blouses, skirts , handbags, cushion covers etc.

BASIC HAND EMBROIDERY STITCHES - 53. CUT WORK

CUT WORK:----Cut work is the name given to open work methods of embroidery . Where the portions of the background are cut away and , in the more elaborate forms re- embroidered. Cut work is worked in buttonhole stitch.
Cut work varies from simple cut spaces to larger and more elaborately filled spaces. In simple cut work the spaces are quite small. In the hard forms the cut spaces are large with filled in bars and picots which give a decorative appearance.
Cut work is suitable for all types of household linen . It is important to avoid colour contrasts with the more elaborate the only a firm, evenly woven linen or very strong cotton should be used because other fabrics fray when the spaces are cut. The thread for stitching should be in a weight to suit the fabric. do not use stranded cotton because the strands are not enough . Fine crewel needles are suitable for simple cut work. although shapes are best for working the lace like filling. Choose the size according to the weight and thread being used. you should also have a pair of very sharp finely pointed end scissors.