Saturday, April 25, 2009

106 . FUNDAMENTALS OF TAILORING

FUNDAMENTALS OF TAILORING
------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



TOOLS FOR CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION

AND


NEEDLE WORK

SEWING BOX :--- First and foremost you should have a box or

basket with compartments for keeping the things you need for

sewing . Arrange the contents in such a way that there is a place

for everything .

C U T T I N G TOOLS :---
------------------------------
1 . S C I S S O R S :---

2 . D R E S S M A K E R"S S H E A R S :---

3 . P I N K I N G S H E A R S :----

4 . B U T T O N H O L E S C I S S O R S :---

5 . E L E C T R I C S C I S S O R S :----








Tuesday, February 10, 2009

KNITTING - 27 .JERSEY

JERSEY:--

SIZE :--To fit 24 " chest .

Jersey length from shoulder 15 1/2 " . sleeve lenth 10 " .

Tension : -- 5 STS and 6 rows to 1 " . Over double moss stitch worked on

no . 5 needles one ball of contrast colour B . one pair no . 5 needles and

one pair no . 7 needles .

Jersey back :---using no. 7 needles and A , cost on 63 STS .

1 st row :--k 1 * k 1 p 1 REP from * to end . REP these two rows 3

times more . change to no . 5 needles commence pattern .

1st row :---( p 1 k 1 ) 5 times . * (p 2 k 3 ) 2 , p 2 * k 1 ( p 1 k 1 ) 9

times .

second row :---( k 1 p 1 ) 5 times . * ( k 2 p 3 ) twice . k 2 * p 1 ( k 1 p 1 )

9 times . REP from * to once more ( p 1 k 1 ) to end .

3 rd row :---( k 1 P 1 ) 5 times . REP from * to as given for first row ,

p 1 ( k 1 p 1 ) 9 times .REP from * to as given for a first row ( p 1 k 1 )

to end .

4 th row :---( P 1 k 1 ) 5 times . REP from * to as given for second row . (

k 1 p 1 ) k 1 9 times . rep from * to as given for second row k 1 p 1 to end .

5 th and 6 th rows :---as first and second rows .

7 th row :--- ( k 1 p 1 ) 5 times . * p 2 k 3 p 2 k 2 p 3 * p 1 ( k 1 p 1 ) 9 times . REP

from * to once more ( p 1 k 1 ) to end .

8 th row :---( p 1 k 1 ) 5 times . * k 3 p 2 k 2 p 3 k 2 * k 1 ( p 1 k 1 ) 9 times

REP from * to once more . ( k 1 p1 ) to end .

9 th row :-- ( p 1 k 1 ) 5 times . p 3 k 3 p 1 k 1 p 4 * k 1 ( p 1 k1 ) 9 times . REP

from * to once more ( k 1 p 1 ) to end .

10 th row :---( k 1 p 1 ) 5 times k 4 p 1 k 1 p 3 k 3 * p 1 ( k1 p 1 ) 9 times REP

from * to once more .( p 1 k1 ) to end .

11 th row :--( k 1 p 1 ) 5 times . * p 4 k 3 p 5 * p 1 ( k 1 p 1 ) 9 times REP

from * to once more ( p 1 k 1 ) to end .

12 th row :---( p 1 k 1 ) 5 times * k 5 p 3 k 4 * k 1 ( p 1 k 1 ) 9 times . REP

from * to once more ( k1 p 1 ) to end .

13 th row :--- ( p 1 k 1 ) 5 times * p 5 k 3 p 4 * k1 ( p 1 k 1 ) 9 times REP

from * ti once more . ( k 1 p 1 ) to end .

14 th row :--( k 1 p 1 ) 5 times * k 4 p 3 k 5 * p 1 ( k 1 p 1 ) 9 times REP from * to

once more ( p 1 k 1 ) to end .

15 th row :---( k 1 p 1 ) 5 times * p 4 k 1 p 1 k 3 p 3 * p 1 ( k 1 p 1 ) 9 times REP

from * to once more ( p 1 k 1 ) to end .

16 th row :---( p 1 k 1 ) 5 times * k 3 p 3 k 1 p 1 k 4 * k 1 ( p 1 k 1 ) 9 times

REP from * to once more ( k 1 p 1 ) to end .

17 th row :---( p 1 k 1 ) 5 times * p 3 k 2 p 2 k 3 p 2 * k 1 ( p 1 k 1 ) 9 times

REP from * to once more ( k 1 p 1 ) to end .

18 th row :---( k 1 p 1 ) 5 times . * k 2 p 3 k 2 p 2 k 3 * p 1 ( k 1 p 1 ) 9 times

REP from *to once more ( p 1 k 1 ) to end .

19 th and 20 th row
:---As third and fourth rows . These twenty rows from

the pattern . continue in the pattern until work measures 10 1/2 " from BEG .

SHAPE ARMHOLE :----Keeping in PATT correct cost off 4 STS .At

BEG of next two rows .work two rows 1 st at each end of next

and every 4 th row until 45 sts REM * work one row after last

DEC .
.
SHAPE SHOULDER :----Cost off at BEG of next and every row 4

STS 4 times and 5 STS twice . leave REM 19 STS on shoulder .

JERSEY FRONT :---Work as given for back to * ending with a rs row .

SHAPE NECK AND SHOULDERS :---NEXT ROW :--PATT 16 STS turn

and leave REM sts on holder .

NEXT ROW :---K 2 tog PATT to end .

NEXT ROW :---Cost off 4 sts PATT to end REP last two rows once

more then first of them again cost off REM 5 sts .

FIRST ROW :---W ith W. S of work facing SL first 13 STS on

holder and leave for centre neck re - join yarn to REM sts p 2

TOG PATT to end .

NEXT ROW :---cost off 4 STS PATT to end . completed match first

side .

SLEEVE :----Using no 7 needles and cost on 39 STS .work 6

rows rib as given for back . join in B .

FIRST ROW :---K 1 . then rib 3 rows . Break off B contrast with

A only . k one row then rib one row .

INC 1 st at end of last row 40 STS . change to no . 5 needles

commence PATT .

FIRST ROW :---( P 1 K 1 ) 7 times REP from * to as given for

first row of back ( k 1 p 1 ) to end .

2 nd row :---( k 1 p 1 ) 7 times REP from * to as given for

second row of back ( p1 k 1 ) to end .

3 rd row :----( k 1 p 1 ) 7 times REP from * to as given for third

row of back . ( p 1 k 1 ) to end .

Continue in pattern as given for back . now INC one ST at each

end of 5 th and every follow 6 th row .Until there are 50 STS and

working extra STS . Double moss ST . Continue with out shaping

until sleeve measures 10 " from BEG or required length ending with

a W . S row .

SHAPE TOP :---cost off 4 STS at BEG of next two rows DEC

one ST at each end of next and every alter nate row . Until 28

STS REM than at each end of every row . until 16 STS REM .

Continue with out shaping on this 16 STS for length of shoulder

ending with a w. s . Live sts on holder .

NEXT BAND :---Top of shoulder to front and back shoulders using set of 4 STS

no - 7 needles A and with R . S . of work facing k across stitches of right

sleeve back neck and left sleeve k 2 TOG at each seam k up 4 STS down side

of neck k across centre front neck STS than k up . 4 STS up other side of

neck 70 STS work one round k 1 p 1 RIB join in B . k one round than RIB 3

rounds break off B using A . k one round then continue in RIB until work

measures 3 " from BEG . cost off loosely in RIB .



































KNITTING - 26 . BABY 'S CARDIGAN

BABY " S CARDIGAN
CHEST :---18"

LENGTH :---10 "

SLEEVE SEAM :---5 1/2 "

BACK PART :---Using no . 11 needles cost on 62 STS . work in k 1 p 1 RIB

for 1 " . change to no . 9 needles and knitting ST at both ends of every

row throughout produce in STOCKING STITCH until work measure 5 1/ 2 "

from BEG finishing at end of a purl row .

SHAPE RAGLAN AS FOLLOWS :---

FIRST AND SECOND ROWS :---Cost off 3 work to end .

THIRD ROW :---K 1 K 2 TOG TBL k to last three stitches k 2 TOG k 1 .

FOURTH ROW :---K 1 P to last ST k 1 REP third and fourth rows until

20 STS remain . finishing at end of a fourth row cost off .

RIGHT FRONT : --Using no 11 needles cost on 30 STS . work in k 1 p 1 RIB

for 1 " INC one ST at BEG of last row . on 31 STS change to no . 9 needles and

produce in STOCKING STITCH with fancy panel as follows .:---

first row :---k 4 p 2 k 5 p 2 k 2 end .

second row :--k 1 p 17 k 2 p 5 k 2 p 4

third and fourth rows :---as first and second rows .

fifth row :--k 4 p 2 w . o . n . k 2 TOG k 1 k 2 TOG W.R. N . p 2 k 2 . end .

sixth row :--as second row .

seventh row :--k 4 p 2 k 1 WF . W D SL one k 2 TOG p. s . s . o . wf. wd k 1 p 2 k 2

end .

eighth row :--k 1 p 17 k 2 p 5 k 2 p 4 .

These 8 rows from the pattern .

knitting st at side edge : On every row throughout continue in stoking stitch with

fancy panel until work measures same as back to armhole shaping finishing

with right side facing for next row . keeping fancy panel correct shape front

slope and raglan armhole as follows .

first row :--- work to 2 TOG work to end . cost off 3 STS work to end .

third row :-- work to last three STS k 2 tog k 1 .

4 th row :---k 1 p 1 work to end DEC one ST at front edge on every following

fourth row from PRE DEC at the same time continue DEC one one ST at

armhole edge and next and every alternate row until three STS remain .

continue DEC at armhole edge only one every alt row as before until one

ST remain . work one row fasten off .

Left front :---work to match right front revercing all shapings nothing that

TOG will be work in place of TOG at armhole shaping and placing the first

two rows of fancy panel as follows .

1 st row :---k 18 p 2 k 5 p 2 k 4

2 nd row :---p 4 k 2 p 5 k 2 p to last ST k 1 .

SLEEVES :--- Using no 11 needles cost on 34 STS work in k 1 p 1 rib for

1 " .

NEXT ROW :---RIB 1 " . In next ST RIB 9 three times INC in next ST

RIB to end .STS 38 change to no -9 needles and knitting

stitch at both ends of every row throughout produced in stocking stitch INC

1 ST in first and last but one at third row . Follwing and every following 7 th

row until there are 48 STS . continue on this STS until work measures 5 1/2 "

from BEG finishing at ends of a purl row .

FRONT BAND :---Using no 11 needles cost on 7 STS .

1 st row :---k 2 ( p 1 k 1 ) twice . k 1

2 nd row :---( k 1 p 1 ) 3 times k 1 REP last two rows one time more .

next row :--k 2 p 1 w . r . n . p 2 TOG k 2 .

next row :---as second row .

continue in RIB with out further buttonhole until work measures 25 " from BEG

cost off in RIB .












KNITTING - 25 . PULL OVER

PULL OVER :---
MEASURMENTS :---To fit 38" ; length = 27 "

BACK :---no =10 needles used for cost on 132 STS work 21 rows in

K 1 P 1 RIB INC ONE ST at any end of last row ( now 1 3 3 STS )

change to no -8 needles back proceed as follows .

first row :----k 1 * k B 1 p 2 k 8 p 2 REP from * to last 2 STS k B 1 p 1 .

second row :---p 1 * p B 1 K 2 P 8 K 2 REP from * to last 2 STS p B 1 k 1 .

3 rd to 6 th rows :-- REP from 1 st and second rows twice more .

7 th row :---k 1 * k B 1 p 2 c4 F p 2 REP from * to last 2 STS k B 1 k 1 .

8 th and 9 th rows :---REP 2 nd and 1 st rows .

10 th row :---p 1 8 p B 1 k 2 p 8 k 2 REP from * to last 2 STS p B 1 p 1 .

these 10 rows from the PATT . Continue in PATT until work measure 17 1/2 " from

the BEG .

SHAPE ARMHOLE :---By costing 7 STS at BEG next 2 rows then DEC 1 ST

at both ends of next and every alternate row until 105 STS remain continue

on this STS until work measure 9 1/2" from BEG of armhole shaping .

SHAPE SHOLDER AS FOLLOWS :--- 1 st and 2 nd rows cost off PATT to end .

3 rd to 6 th rows :-cost off 12 STS PATT to end . cost off remaining STS .

FRONT :---Proceed as back until work measure 15 1/2 " from BEG . Finishing

with wrong side facing for next row . PATT 66 STS cost off PATT to end

proceed on first group of STS as follows . DEC 1 st at neck edge on 3 rd row

following and every 4 th row until work measure the same row same as back

to cost off row at armhole shaping still on DEC on 1 st at armhole edge on

every alternate row 7 times continue DEC 17 times . Continue DEC at neck

edge only every 4 th row as before until 35 STS remain . continue on this

STS until work measure same as back to shoulder shaping finishing at

armhole edge.

SHAPE SHOULDER AS FOLLOWS :---1 ST ROW :---cost off 11 STS PATT to

end .

2 nd and 4 th rows :---work all across .

3 rd row :---cost off 12 STS . Re join wool to remaining group of STS to half

STS and complete to match first off reversing shapings .

NECK BAND :--Using a fine back stitch seam join shoulders and and front

and back with right side facing . using set of no - 11 needles knitt up 190

STS round neck . Including first knitted up through back of loop are cost

off . DEC 1 st at each side of knitt up at centre front cost off in neck rib.

ARMHOLE :---using no .11 needles with a rightside facing knitt up 150 STS

round armhole work in k 1 p 1 RIB for 1 " cost off in RIB.



KNITTING - 24 . STOCKING

STOCKING :---Cost on 44 STS . 16 on each of first and second

needles and 12 on third needle . work 2 " in round rib of ( k 2 p 2 ) .

In the next round k 10 INC once . In next st k 21 INC once next st k 11 .

( 46 STS ) work 3 1/2 " INS in plain knitting to commence heal k 11 slip

last 11 STS of round on to two needles and live for instep . work 17

rows on heal STS in alternate rows of purl and plain ( always slipping )

first and knitting last ST . In every row to turn heal k 12 k 2 TOG turn .

p 3 , p2 TOG . turn k 4 , k2 TOG turn . p 5 p 2 TOG turn . k 6 k2 TOG

turn . Continue in this manner until all STS are worked on to one needle

again . knit back 6 STS ( this completing heal ) slip all instep STS on to

one needle again . Using spare needle knit remaining 6 STS of heal and

knit up 12 STS at side heal with second needle knit across 24 instep

STS with third needle . knitb up 12 STS at side of heal and other 6 heal

STS shape instep as follows .

FIRST ROUND :--- knit .

SECOND ROUND :---K to last three STS of first needle k 2 TOG k 1 knit

second needle plain on third needle k1 , k 2 TOG TBL k to end of needle .

REP these two rounds until 10 STS remain . on each of first and third

needle work 2 1/2 " in plain knitting . length of foot may be at this point .

Slip first ST of second needle on to end of first and last ST of second needle

on to be BEG of third needle shape toe as follows .

FIRST ROUND :---knit to last three STS of first needle k 2 TOG k1

on second needle k1 k 2 TOG TBL knit to last three STS k 2 TOG k 1

on third needle k 1 k2 TOG TBL knit to end of needle knit two rounds

plain REP these three rounds until 24 STS remain in round . knit STS

of first needle on to end of third needle cost off STS from two needles

TOG . work another socks in same mannar with dam cloth and hot iron

press carefully .

KNITTING - 23 . SOCKS

SOCKS :---Cost on 44 STS work in RIB k1 p 1 RIB for 1 ".

FIRST ROW :----k 2 * w. fwd SL one k 2 TOG p . s . s . o . w. fwd k 5

REP from * to last 5 STS w . fwd SL one k 2 TOG p . s. s. o . w . fwd k 2 .

SECOND AND ALTERNATE ROWS :----K 1 P 1 to last ST k 1 .

THIRD ROW :---K

FIFTH ROW :----K 6 * W . FWD SL one k 2 TOG p . s . s . o . w . fwd k 5

REP from * to last ST k 1 .

SEVENTH ROW :----K

EIGHTH ROW :---K 1 P 1 to last ST k 1 .

These 8 rows from the pattern until work measure 4 INS from BEG .

NEXT ROW :---K 2 * W . FWD K 2 TOG REP from * to end . Divide STS

into 3 parts . knitt centre part 2 1/2 " . SL 12 instep STS on to needle


again then all STS knitt 1 1/2 " . c o s t off STS . work another socks in

the same manner with a damp cloth and hot iron press carefully .

KNITTING - 22 . BONNET


BONNET


Using no .13 needles and the two needles method .

cost on 95 STS . work 8 rows in stocking stitch .


NEXT ROW :----K 1 * W . FWD k 2 TOG REP from * to end .

commenc ing with a " P"
row work 9 rows in STOCKING STITCH .

next row :----Make picot hem by knitting 1 st from needle and one loop

from cost on edge all across row .

Wrong side facing will now be right side these reversing work .

NEXT ROW :--- change to no . 11 needles and produce in PATT as follows.

1 st row :---k 2 * p 3 k 5 REP from * to last 5 STS p 3 k 2 .

2 nd row :---k 1 p 1 * k 3 p 5 REP from * to last 5 STS k 3 p 1 k 1

3 rd row :---as first row .

4 th row :---k 1 p 1 * p 1 w . r . n . p 2 TOG p 5 REP from * p 1 w . r . n . p 2

TOG p 1 k 1 .

5 th row :---k

6 th row :--k 1 p 2 TOG TBL * w. r . n . p 1 w . r . n p 2 TOG p 3 p 2

TOG REP from * w . r . n . p 1 w . r . n . p 2 TOG k 1 .

7 th row :---k 1 * k 5 p 3 REP from * k 6 .

8 th row :---k 1 * p 5 k 3 REP from * p 5 k 1 .

9 th row :---as seventh row .

10 th row :---k 1 * p 6 w . r . n . p 2 TOG REP from * p 5 k 1 .

11 th row :--k

12 th row :---k 1 p 1 * p 3 P 2 TOG TBL w . r . n . p 1 w . r . n . p 2 TOG

REP from * p 4 k 1 .

These 12 rows from the PATT . continue in PATT until work measures 5 1/2 "



from lower edge . finishing with right side facing for next row . keeping PATT

correct produced as follows .

NEXT ROW :--cost off 32 , PATT to last 32 STS cost off 32 STS . Breake off

wool re join wool in PATT . Until work measures 3 3/4 " from cost off STS

. cost off working k 1 * k 2 TOG REP from * to end of row .