DARTS

DARTS

These are used to shape a flat piece a fabric to fit the curves of a figure .

The standed dart is triangular in shape that is wide at one end pointed

at the other. Double pointed darts are wide in the middle and pointed at both

ends . They are used at the waist line of one piece dresses . A dart may

sometimes be stitched only path way . The un stitched path , they looks some

what like a tuck . Such darts are called dart tucks .

Darts may be decorative functional or both . Any dart placed in an

unusual manner or stitched on the right side of the garment can be set to the

decorative . Usually these darts are very small . Functional darts are intended

for fitting the body curves -bust , hip , shoulder and elbow . They should point to

the fullest part of the curve , but must not extend as far as the curve . Shows

the marking for bust , darts and waist line in a blouse front pattern .

INTRODUING FULLNESS

INTRODUCING FULLNESS

Fullness is introduced in to garments for various reasons such as

1.To give good shape and proper fit to the garment .

2.To allow freedom of movement and comfort to the weaver and

3 .To make the garment look attractive


Darts , tucks , pleats , flare and gathers are some of the devices of Introducing

Fullness .

OVER CAST FINISH

OVER CAST FINISH :---This is a common method used for both thic and thin

materials that fray easily. It is useful for narrow seams

and also for seam that receive hard wear or extra strain .

Such as armholes and waist lines . After making the plain

seam pressed the seam open and worked over casting

stitches over the raw edges of the two seam allowances

separately . Avoid tight stitches in order to prevent edges

for puckering on seams of armholes or yokes press the seam

allowances to one side and overcast the two edges together .

In stead of overcasting blanket stitch or zigzag

machining can be done on the raw edges of the seam allowances .

BOUND SEAM EDGE FINISH

BOUND SEAM EDGE FINISH :---In this method the seam is pressed open

and bias binding attached to the both seam edges . For this fabrics seam


allowances could be pressed together and bias binding attached to it .

HERRING BONE FINISH SEAM

HERRING BONE FINISH SEAM :---This finish neatens the raw edges and also holds down the

turning , making the seam flats . This is suitable for heavy

materials like flannels . After pressing the seam open

herring bone stitches are worked on the two raw edges

catching the garment .

DOUBLE STITCH FINISH

DOUBLE STITCH FINISH :--After making a plain seam worked an extra line of stitching

about 1/4 from the raw edge . This can be done done for a plain

un-finished seam or pinked seam . This is not suitable for

bulky fabrics .

EDGE STITCH FINISH

EDGE STITCH FINISH :---The seam is stitched and pressed open . Then turn under 1/4 "

on each seam edge and top stitch close to the fold with out

catching garment . This finish is used on unlined coats , jackets

where a wide seam allowances is available . This is a bulky finish

and is not suitable for deeply curved seam .