DRESSMAKING - 2. JABLA

JABLA

JABLA

                                     

JABLA

MEASURMENTS :----

CHEST = 18 "

LENGTH =15 "----CHEST - 3"

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :-----

A B = Full length + 1/2 "

AC = 1/4 Chest + 4 "

A B = C D

AC = B D

C E =1 / 6 Chest inside from C

C F =1 /4 Chest - 1 /2 "

F G =1 1/2 " Inside from F

G D = Join with straight line .

F D =Join with curve shape .

A A 1 =1 1 /2 " down from ' A'

E A 1 =Join with round shape .

SEAMS AND PROCESS :----

 1. Run and fell seam at sides .

 2.Hem at bottom and sleeves .

3.Make  bound button hole  at the center  of the  front portion.

CLOTH ESTIMATION :-----

Two full lengths .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :----

Printed , Poplin , lon , cambric .




   

 


 

 


 


 



 

 


 



 


 

 
  . Make bound button whole at the center of the front portion .


 






 

 

 
      Run and fell seam at sides . Hem at bottom and sleeves .
 

 
                           Finished    garment.
 

CLOTH ESTIMATION :-----

Two full lengths .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :----

Printed , Poplin , lon , cambric .

DRESS MAKING - PATTERN MAKING THEORY - 1 . JANGIA

FUNDAMENTALS OF TAILORING - FLANNEL PATCH

FLANNEL PATCH :---Shape of the patch :--May be either square or rectanglar .Preparation of patch :---It should be 1 " bigger all round than the area to be repaired the edges must be cut straight by a thread . N o turnings are made .
Placing of the patch on the garment :---The right side of the patch is placed on the wrong side of garment . The centre of patch over centre of hole . Selvedge is by selvedge straight by a thread , with wrap line in the same direction as that of the garment . Carefully pin the two selvedge sides in position first . Tack as close to the edge as possible , biginning in the middle of a selvedge side .

In order to assist in keeping the stitches level at the top ,a second row of tacking can be done 4 or 5 threads above the edge . Herring bone the patch to the garment first .Then herring bone the hole . When working the corners of patch and hole , care must be taken to work squares at the corners .

PRITED PATCH

PRINTED PATCH :---Preparation for the printed patch is the same as for

plain patch , after matching the print all round , except that the wrong side of

the patch is placed on the right side of the garment .

Match the pattern by one selvedge side first and pin carefully in position . Then match the

second selvedge side with the print pin carefully in position , fold under the selvedgesides 1/4" .

Match one weft side then the other pinning carefully in position ,


fold under edges 3/8" . All corners must be square . Remove the pins

and carefully pressed in

the folds . Fold the patch in half inch away press the creases firmly . Place wrong side of the

patch on the right side of the garment . Place selvedge threads by

selvedge threads but matching

the pattern not necessarily keeping by a straight thread . The center of the

patch is placed over

the center of the hole . Pin the two selvedge sides first and then the two

weft sides . Tack close to

the edge starting in the middle of a selvedge side .


Top sew the patch neatly all round , being careful to hold the patch

towards the worker .Do not

work too tightly and carefully flatten each side . Just worked , before

starting the adjecent side

.By holding the patch towards the worker the patch is kept flat .

Finishing the hole :---Turn the wrongside of the work towards the worker

and make diagonal creases as in the plain patch "measure 3/8 " from the

stitches on these diagonal creases . Insert the scissors into the fold and cut

along the diagonal creases into these points , all of which should be straight

by a thread . Fold back these flaps of the hole level with the turnings of the

patch loop stitch the raw edges .

PLAIN PATCH

PATCHES  

A Patch is a form of mending and is used to

cover holes or any torn parts of the garment with the same kind of material . It

is done in places where darning cannot be done .

there are three kinds of patches :---

1. Plain Patch :---In this the seam used is called " counter hem seam " . Here the

size of the sampler 6 " or 6 1/ 2 " square and that of the patch piece is 3 " or

3 1/ 2 " square . The patch can either be a square or rectangle . The patch piece

should be 3 /4 " to 1 " bigger than the hole all round . The patch should be

as inconspicuous as possible and this can be done efficiently as possible using

suitable stitches , threads and working neatly with matching material . The patch

piece should be of the same color , strength and appearance . If necessary

the patch piece may be washed several times to bring it to the same strength

and color . The thread used should be cotton on cotton , wool on wool , silk on silk

. The selvedge and weft threads of the patch piece and the sampler must be made

to match correctly .To work a plain patch place the right side of the patch piece

over the wrong side of the sampler and straight by the selvedge threads . The weft

threads must be straight by the weft threads of the sampler . Place the patch piece

over the sampler taking care to see that the patch piece falls over the centre of the

hole. Fold 1 / 4 " of an inch alround and then pin the selvedge sides first . Next ,

pin the two weft sides . Tack close to the edge starting in the middle of a selvedge

side .

fell the patch neatly alround , starting either in the corner of one of the sides or

from the middle of one of the selvedge sides . The latter is better as it lessens bulk

in the corners and prevents the corner from getting out of shape .

FINISHING OF THE HOLE :---Turn the right side of the work towards

the worker and make diagonal creases across the patch from the

corners .Measure 1/4 " on the diagonal creases from the corners. Insert

the scissors into the hole and cut along the diagonal creases up to

these points , all of which should be straight . Fold back these flaps of

the hole level with these points and cut . Snip these along the

diagonals

1 / 6 " above the corners of the hole . Fold these raw edges , under

starting with the selvedge side and using the needle to turn back the

edges carefully at the corners . Tack close to the edge then finish the

adjecent side and continue thus till all the sides are completed .

Holding the right side of the work with the patch towards the worker

,top - sew or hem the edge of the hole of the patch , being careful to

flattern eachside .

DARNING

Darning is that method in which new threads are supplied in

the place of thin or worn out woven once. It is a form of

hand weaving or an imitation of the process adopted in the

manufacture of fabrics .

FUNDAMENTAL RULES FOR DARNING :----

1. Prevent a whole from from forming by strengthening a thin place .

2. Begin at the left hand side of the part to darned because ,

(a ) It is easier to see any pattern that has to be repeated in the darn .

(b) The hand does not cover up the darn while it is in progress .

(c) The hand does not rub over the mending which might fray or

become rough looking .

3. Darns should be an irregular shape of , so as that the strain of

new threads is not born by the same line of threads so as to give

risk to fresh weaknesses . The diagonal shape is the most

practical .

4. Loop 's 1 / 10 th should be left to allow for shrinking . The ends of the thread are left hanging

1/4 " and not fastened off . the threads of the darn being so woven in as to make the fastening unnecessary .

5. The thread used should be as like the original as possible in color texture and stranding . The

general rule is silk on silk , wool on wool and cotton on cotton . Silk together with wool on wool

gives greater strength .

6.The darn must in no way strain the material or cause puckring . the work must be kept flat by

keeping the thumb on the thread as it is pulled through the material .

NEEDLES :---The needles used are longer than sewing needles and have longer eyes . this is so because

(a) A long needle can take up a greater number of stitches .

(b) A large eye makes it easier for threading with the particular thread .

POSITION OF NEEDLES :---Most darns are formed by rows of threads worked from the

chest and to the chest up rows - from the chest and down down rows - towards the chest .

THE HEDGE OR ' L ' TEAR :---The tear usually happens on the dresses or outer garments

and some sharp surface . The marerial tears with the thread . The corner is often irregular as

this is the place in tearing where the strain has been the greatest . As a rule

the selvedge threads give way less being stronger and the weft being weaker give way more .

Because of this the tear is very often longer but the weft threads and is often more frayed

and irregular .

MATERIALS USED :--- As in all darns the thread should match the

marerial in all respects as far possible and no .7 and no . 8 needles should be used . A selvedge

thread from the material

a sufficiantly strong will give the best result and make the darn less visible .

WORKING :----Draw the edges carefully with fishbone stitch . If the

material is fine and of a kind which frays badly , fasten the position with the wrongside upper

most over a piece of stiff paper or thin card -board , this makes a firm surface to work up on

and puckering is less likely to occur.

HOLDING OF WORK :--Hold the work as for darning a hole over the first and second

fingers with the thumb and third finger on top to hold the work in position .

METHOD :----As a general rule , the darn is worked on the

wrong side and the method illustrated in the diagram is suitable

for materials of medium thickness . Begin the darning weft way of the material

holding the work so that the wrap way of the threads lies along the finger .

COMMENCEMENT :--Working as for a thin place darn begin at the

left hand side , 1/4 " to 3 / 8 " to the left and above or below . Take up 1 , 2 , or

3 threads on the needle passing over the same amount and each row having

the same number of stitches . work within

a 1/4" or 3/8" beyond the tear . Turn the work round and work the

otherside in exactly the same manner to within 1/4" or 3/8 "

beyond the tear .

The thumb must always be kept on the slit when drawing the

thread through as this prevents un - ravelling and keeps

the darn flat . The space between the rows is equl to the depth of the stitch .

KNIFE - CUT OR BREAKFAST DARN :---This is generally the result of the careless use of a

knife which cuts across both weft and selvedge threads and in consequence requires careful

darning .

The cut may be at any angle .

MATERIAL USED :---Any kind of cotton which matches the material is suitable for practical

purposes . If a selvedge thread can be pulled out from the fabric itself and is sufficiently strong ,

it will give the best result . A fine darning needle no . 7 or 8 should be used .

PREPARATION OF DARN :---If the fabric is one which frays badly ,

it is sometime simple if the edge are carefully drawn together

with small fish-bone stitches not very closely worked using a veryfine cotton and needle .It this

stitch is used , the needle is inserted about 1 / 6 " from the end of the slit and from the wrong . It

is pulled through the right side . Insert the needle into the slit and bring it out

1/6" beyond the stitch on the opposite side . The following stitches

are worked in the same manner , always inserting the needle in to the slit and bringing it out 1/6

" out-side the edge of the slit . By

this means all the raw edges are kept on the wrong side . The stitches are removed when the

darn is complete .

APPLYING FRENCH BINDING

APPLYING FRENCH BINDING :---This is used on shear fabrics .

For this you must cut bias strip i . e . 6 times the desired finished

width . Fold the strip in half , wrong sides together and press .

Stitch raw edges of binding to the garment on the right side and hem

the folded edge to stitching line on the wrong side .