Monday, March 22, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 25 . C H I L D ' S B O D I C E B L O C K




CHILD 'S BODICE - BLOCK


MEASUREMENTS :---

1. Length of back --from nape of the neck to hollow of the back .

2. Round chest = 22 "

3 . cross back = 9 " ( shoulder )

Size of paper :---

Length = 9"

width =11 " ( 1/2 round chest )

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :---

Mark the corners A B C D .

A B and C D = Width of the bodice block .

A C and B D = Length of the bodice block .

BACK AND FRONT :---

Fold or divide the paper width wise into half for half front

and half back block .

E E1 Armhole line or chest line is 1/2 length = 4 1/2 "

F F1 Cross back line length = 2 1/4 "

G G1 shoulder is 1/8 length = 1/8 "

BACK BODICE BLOCK :-----

1. On the shoulder line G G1 take + 1 = 1/3 of AB + 1/2 " or

half cross back for cross back . Do the same from E .

Mark M 1 . Join H to H 1 with a line .

2 . BACK NECK :---2. ( a ) Width = 1/2 G H .

Measure it from A and mark the point as I .

( b ) Depth = 1/2 " below A on the AC line mark A 1 .

( c ) Join A 1 and I with a slight downward curve .

SHOULDER :--- Join I M with a straight line for the

shoulder , and extend 1/2 " out from H mark H 2 .

4 .ARMHOLE :----Curve , join H 2 and J with a

curve .

5 .SIDE LINE :---Go in 1/2 " from J , and mark

it as K . Join J and K for the side seam .

FRONT BODICE BLOCK :----

1 . NECK - ( a ) width = 1/2 GH . m easure it from B

and mark the point L .

(b ) . Depth up to crossback line F 1 .

( c ) . Join L and F 1 with a deep downword curve .

( 2 ) SHOULDER :---- ( a ) Join L H with a straight line

( b ) measure I and H 2 along L H line for the

front shoulder . Mark it M there .

I H 2 = L M .

( 3 ) ARMHOLE :----( a) From M drop a perpendicular

on the chest line .

( b ) Take 1/4 " from the perpendicular on the cross front line and

mark it N .

( C ) Join M , N and J with a deep inward curve .

( 4 ) SIDE :---Take 1/2 " from J and call this point o .

Join J and O with a straight line for the side seam .

CHILD 'S SLEEVE BLOCK :---

MEASUREMENTS :---

LENGTH = 4 " to 5 "

WIDTH = 11 "

Fold one paper into half , keeping one fold on the top .

Mark A B C D .

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :---

1 . P oint E from B is 1/4 of one length of the bodice - block .

2 .Draw a guiding line from A to E .

3 .Join A E with an outer curve 3 /4 " from center for the back .

4 .The front of the sleeve crosses at the center of the guiding

line and goes 1/4 " in and 1/4 " out on either side ( as

shown in the diagram ) .

SKIRT :----

Skirt length = full length - waist length

A B = width of the material or 1/2 ch + 4 "

A C = skirt length + 2 "

A B = CD

SEAMS AND PROCESS :---

1 .P lain seams at sides and shoulder .

2 . Hem at bottom and sleeves bottom also .

3 . Neck should finish with collar or false hem or piping .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :----Printed , Nylon , cambric , checked etc .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :--- 1 body length + sleeve length + 2 skirt

lengths .


Saturday, March 20, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 2 4 . P U N J A B I S H I R T

P U N J A B I S H I R T



                               

P U N J A B I S H I R T

MEASUREMENTS :---

CHEST = 24 "

LENGTH = CH + 6 "

SHOULDER  = 1/6 CH + 1 1/2 "

NATURAL WAIST = 1 / 2 CH - 1 1/2 "

WAIST LOOSE = CH - 2 "

SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/4 CH

SLEEVE BOTTOM = 1/4 CH + 1 "

NECK = 1/8 CH + 1/2 " =3 1/2 "

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :----

BACK SIDE :--

0 - 1 = full length

1 - 2 = 1 1/2 " for folding

0 - 3 = natural waist = 10 1/2 "

0 - 4 = 1/4 chest

4 - 5 = 1/4 ch + 1 1/2 " = 7 1/2 "

0 - 6 = 1/2 shoulder

6 - 7 = straight line down

6 - 8 = 3/4 " or 1/2 " down

0 - 9 = 1 /12 ch + 1/2 " = 2 1/2 "

8 , 9 join

0 - 10 = 1 / 8 ch

9 - 10 = back neck shape .

8 - 5 = armhole shape

5 , 11 , 3 , 4 square

11 - 12 = 1/2 " inside

5 - x = 2 1/2 " down

x - 12 = join

y center of 12 , 3

y - A = 1 / 2 " side

y - B = 1/2 " side

13 - 14 = 1/4 ch

2 - 15 = 1/4 ch + 5

15 - 16 = 1 1/2 " up

16 - 1 = join

16 - 17 = 1/4 ch

12 , 17 = shape

15 , 16 , 17 join

FRONT SIDE :----

0 - 18 = 1/8 ch + 1/2 "

9 - 18 = front armhole shape

7 - 19 = 3/4 " up

join 18 , 19 , 5 front armhole shape .

16 - 17 open .

SLEEVES :----

0 - 1 = Sleeve

1 - 2 = 1 1/2 " for folding

0 - 3 = 1/2 shoulder

0 , 3 , 4 , 2 square

4 - 5 = 1 1/2 " up

5 -1 = join

3 - 6 = 1/12 ch + 1/2 " = 2 1/2 "

1 - 7 = 1/2 bottom + 1/2 "

6 - 8 = 1 " inside

6 - 0 = back armhole shape

6 , 8 , 0 front armhole shape

6 , 7 , 4 side shape .

SEAMS AND PROCESS :---




1. Shoulders and sides should finish with plain seam .

2 . neck should finish with false hem .

3 . hem at bottom .

4 . Attach sleeves with plain seam .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :---

POPLIN , POLYESTER , SILK .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :---

Two full lengths + one sleeve length .

Friday, March 19, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 23 . HAND - KERCHIEF


H A N D - K E R C H I E F
MEASUREMENTS :--

LENGTH = 16 "

WIDTH = 16 "

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :---

0-1 = LENGTH = 16 "

0 -2 =WIDTH = 16 "

0 , 1 , 3 , 2 SQUARE .

0 -1 = 2 -3

0 -2 =1 - 3

Fold 1/4 " first and then 1/2 " and hem .

SUITABLE CLOTH :---

THIN AND SMOOTH COTTON CLOTH, 2/2 , 2 /1 etc .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :--

16 " / 16 " .



Thursday, March 18, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 22 .B A N I A N






B A N I A N

MEASUREMENTS :---

CHEST = 30 "

LENGTH = 2 /3 chest ---20 "

SHOULDER = 1 / 6 Chest + 1 " ---6 "

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :---

0 - 1 = Full length + 1 "

0 - 2 = 1/4 chest --7 1 / 2 "

2 - 3 = 1/4 chest + 2 "-----9 1/2"

3 - 4 = straight line

0 -5 = 1/2 shoulder

5 - 6 = straight down

5 - 7 = 1/2 " down

0 - 8 = 1 / 12 ch+ 1 /2 "

7 - 8 = join

2 - 9 = 1 1/2 " up

8 - 9 = neck shape

7 - 3 = armhole

BACK SIDE :---

0 - 10 = 1 / 12 ch

10 - 8 = neck shape

6 - 11 = 1 " up

7 , 11 , 3 armhole shape .

SEAMS AND PROCESS :---

1 . Join shoulders and sides .

2 . neck should finish with false hem .

3 . arm holes can be turn down and hem .

SUITABLE CLOTH :--

COTTON AND BANIAN MATERIAL .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :---

TWO LENGTHS .


Tuesday, March 16, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 2 1 .G H A R A R A

GHARARA














MEASUREMENTS :----

SEAT = 24 "

FULL LENGTH = 30 "

KNEE LENGTH =12 " -----> 1/2 " SEAT

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :----

A A1 = 1 1/2 " for folding .

A 1 B = Knee length + 1/2 " = 12 1/2 "

A 1 D = 1/4 seat + 1 1/2 "

A 1 C = 1/3 seat + 1 "

A 1 C = D D1

C C1 = 1/3 seat + 1 1/2 "

C B = C 1 E

Join DE with curve shape .

E F =1 " inside

Join E F with straight line .

GHARARA SKIRT :----

A B = FULL LENGTH - KNEE LENGTH

A C = WIDTH OF MATERIAL

A B = C D

A C = B D

STITCHING PROCESS :----















1 . Stitch bag for gharara skirt as for chudidar pyjama .

2 . join with plain seams .

3 . Hem at bottom . 1/2 " wide .

4. Join top with skirt with plain seam .

CLOTH  ESTIMATION :----

Two full lengths .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :---

SATIN , SILK .

Saturday, February 13, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 20 .CHUDIDAR PYJAMA

        CHUDIDAR PYJAMA












1. Join the pieces , as shown by the dotted line , above

AB line , with 1/2 " raw seam on wrong side for front and back

and for both the legs .

2. Cut out a 2 1/2 " piece on folded material , attach this small

triangler piece 4 " below the hem   line .

3. finish the center seam  1/2 " raw seam .

4 .Join legs 1/2 " with plain seam .

5. 2 1/2 " hem round the ankle .

Note :----No extra material is kept    for stitching .





CHUDIDAR PYJAMA
FIRST MAKE A BAG .

MEASUREMENTS FOR A BAG :----

LENGTH =24"  (  from  waist  to  bottom  )

TOTAL LENGTH = 36 " ( 1 1 / 2 " LENGTH

24 " + 1 2 " = 36 " )


WIDTH = 1 8 " ( 1/2 TOTAL   LENGTH )

36 / 2 = 1 8 " )

BAG MAKING PROCESS :---

1 . Take 3 6 " length and 1 8 " width cloth .

name the corners A B C D .

2 . Fold the width into half and stitch in the top

and bottom .

Name the corners E , AB , E 1 , CD .

3 . Fold the cloth like figure no -- 3 . so the bag totally

closed .

4 . cut the bag both top and bottom .

5 . place the stitches like figure no - 5 .

6 . mark into three parts both in the length and width sides .

7 . Mark center rectangle as P Q R S .

P S straight line .

PYS and PXS curve .

CUT through C 1 P X S B 1 and cut through PYS .

SEAMS AND PROCESS :----

1 . 1 /2 " hem at bottom .

2 . 6 " placket opening at bottom .

3 . Seams should be front and back sides of the hip .

4 . Attach 3 " piece round the hip to pass through the tape .

STITCHING :----












1. Join the pieces , as shown by the dotted line , above

AB line , with 1/2 " raw seam on wrong side for front and back

and for both the legs .

2. Cut out a 2 1/2 " piece on folded material , attach this small

triangler piece 4 " below the hem line .

3. finish the center seam  1/2 " raw seam .

4 .Join legs 1/2 " with plain seam .

5. 2 1/2 " hem round the ankle .

Note :----No extra material is kept for stitching .