DRESS MAKING - 30 .B L O U S E W I T H B A N D

BLOUSE  WITH   BAND

LAYOUT      OF     BLOUSE

                       

MEASUREMENTS :---

chest = 36 "

length = 15 " --- 1/2 ch - 3 "

shoulder = 1/6 + 1 1/2 "

waist loose = ch - 4 " or 6 "

sleeve length = 1/4 ch

sleeve bottom =1/4 ch + 2 "

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :----

BACK SIDE :----

A B = Length + 1"

A C = 1/4 ch - 1/2 "

C C 1= 1/4 ch + 1 1/2 "

A D = 1 /2 shoulder + 1/4 "

D D1 straight line down

A E = 1/ 12 ch + 1/2"

D E 1 = 1/ 2 " down from D

join E E 1

A F = 1 " ; join E F with back neck shape .

join C 1 E 1 with back armhole shape

C C1 = B B1

B 1 G = 1/2 " inside

join C 1 G

B G center X , Put dart . Dart length should be 3 1/2 " .

FRONT SIDE :---

A F 1 = 5 "

join EF 1 front neck

join C E 1 front armhole shape .

B  I = 3 "

X Y = 2 "

G J = 2 "

Join J I with curve shape .

BAND :----


A B = 3 1 /2 "

A C = 1/4 waist

A B = C D

AC = BD

D D 1 = 2 1/2 "

E== BD center

E E 1 =2 1/2 "

Join A E 1 D 1 .

SLEEVES :----

A C = sleeve length + 1 1/2 "

A B = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

A B = C D

A E = 1/ 12 ch

join E B with front and back sleeve shapes .

C F = 1 " inside

join E F with side shape .

join E B with front and back sleeve shapes .
 

SEAM    ALLOWANCES  :---

1. Leave    1/2"   extra  for  sides .

2. Leave     1/2"   extra   for   other    places.

3. Leave     1/2"   extra  for  front  side  than  backside . 

SEAMS AND PROCESS :-----
1.First   join   shoulders .
2.Stitch    darts   and  then  attach  band . 
3.stitch    openings  .
4. Plain seams at sides and shoulder .
5. Hem at sleeve bottom and blouse waist .
6.Neck should finished with false hem or piping .

SUITABLE  MATERIAL :-----

Printed , poplin , any soft material .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :----

2 full lengths + 1 sleeve length + 3 "

DRESS MAKING - 29 .B U S H - S H I R T

B U S H - S H I R T

B U S H - S H I R T

MEASUREMENTS :---

CHEST = 30 "

LENGTH = CH - 4 " = 26 "

SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/3 CH

FULL SHOULDER = 1/2 CH - 1 "

NECK = 1/3 CH + 3 " = 13 "

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :-----

0 - 1 = Full length - 1/2 " = 25 1/2 "

1 - 2 = 1 1/2 " for bottom folding

0 - A = 1/12 ch

2 - B = 1/12 ch

3 - 0 = 1/4 ch

3 - 4 = 1/4 ch + 2 1/2 " or 3 "

5 , 4 ; 5 , 2 straight line

6 - 0 = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

7 - 6 = straight line

8 - 6 = 1 1/2 " down

9 - 7 = 1 /24 ch = 1 "

10 - 0 = 1/12 ch = 2 1/2 "

0 - 11 = 1/12 ch  = 2 1/2 "

10 - 8 = shoulder shape .

9 , 8 , 4 front armhole shape .

11 - 10 = front neck shape

BACK SIDE :---

0 - 1 = Length = length - 1 1/2 "

1 - 2 = 1 1/2 " for bottom folding .

3 - 0 = 1/4 ch - 1 1/2 "

3 - 4 = 1/4 ch + 2 1/2 "

5 - 4 = straight line .

6 - 0 = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

7 - 6 = 1/4 " down

8 - 0 = shape

8 - 4 = back armhole shape

5 - x = 1/2 " inside

4 - x = side shape

SHOULDER : -----

0 - 1 = 1/8 ch + 1/2 " = 4 "

1 - 2 = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

0 , 2 = 3 , 1

2 - 3 = straight line

4 - 0 = 1/ 12 ch

5 - 0 = 1 / 12 ch

6 - 2 = 1 1/2 " down

7 - 3 = 1/4 " up

6 - 4 = shoulder shape

5 - 4 = neck shape

x center of 3 , 1 .

7 , x , 1 curve shape .

SLEEVES :----

0 - 1 = Length

1 - 2 = 1 1/2 " for bottom folding

0 -3 = 1/4 ch

0 , 3 , 4 , 2 square

4 - 5 = 1 1/2 " up

6 - 3 = 1/ 12 ch + 1/2 " = 3 "

6 - 0 = back armhole shape

6 - 7 = 1 1/2 " inside

6 , 7, 0 = front armhole shape

6 , 8 , 4 = side shape

COLLAR :---

0 - 1 = 1/8 Ch + 1/2 " = 4 "

2 - 0 = 1/2 Neck + 1/2 " = 7 "

2 - 3 = straight line

4 - 1 = 1/2 neck + 1/4 " = 6 3/4 "

2 - 4 = side shape

x center of 4 -1

0 - 5 = 1/4 " down

2 - 5 = shape

4 , 6 = 1/4 " up

4 , x , 1 shape .

DRESS MAKING - 2 8 . P L A I N B L O U S E

PLAIN - BLOUSE

MEASUREMENTS :---

chest = 36 "

length = 15 " ---> 1/2 ch - 3 "

shoulder = 1/6  ch+ 1 1/2 "

waist loose = ch - 4 " or 6 "

sleeve length = 1/4 ch

sleeve bottom =1/4 ch + 2 "

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :----

BACK SIDE :----

A A 1 = Length + 1/2 "

A B = 1/2 shoulder or 1/6 ch + 1 1/2 "

A C = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

A B = C C1

B B1 = 1/4 ch + 1 "

B B1 = A 1 D

Join B 1 D

D D1 3 /4 " for side shape

D A 1 Center X for dart . dart width should be 3/4 " .

A E 1 = 1 / 12 ch + 1/2 "

C E = 3 / 4 " down

join E E 1 :

A F = 2 "

Join E B 1 in armhole shape .

join E 1 F for neck .

FRONT SIDE :---

A G = 1/8 ch

join E 1 G front neck

join E B 1 front armhole shape .

A 1 H 3/4 " down .

join D 1 H with curve shape .


DARTS  :---FRONT  SIDE  :---

O R   = 1/4  chest

G A1   center  --- H :-- H H1  =length = 3"
                                              width  = 1/2"

A1D    center  --- X :-- X X1  = length  = 3 1/2"
                                               width  = 1"

B1D    center  --- N :-- N N1  = length  = 3"
                                               width   = 1/2" 


B1M    =  2 1/2 "---     M M1  = length  = 2 1/2 "
                                                 width   = 1/4" 

BACK  SIDE  DARTS  :--    

Y Y1  = length  = 5"
             width   = 1/2"

SLEEVES :----

A A 1 = sleeve length + 1 1/2 "

A B = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

A A 1 = B B1

B C = 1/12 ch + 1/2 "

join A C with front and back sleeve shapes .

A 1 D = 1/2 Sleeve bottom + 1/2 " :

join C D

SEAMS AND PROCESS :-----

1 . Plain seams at sides and shoulder .

2 . Hem at sleeve bottom and blouse waist .

3 .Neck should finished with false hem or piping .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :-----

Printed , poplin , any soft material .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :----

2 full lengths + 1 sleeve length + 3 "