DRESS MAKING - 41 .KINDS OF SKIRTS

KINDS OF SKIRTS

MEASUREMENTS :---

CHEST = 24 "

WAIST = 22 "

LENGTH = 1/2 ch + 2"

1. PLAIN - SKIRT :---

A B = 1/2 width of material

B D 1 = 11 1/2 " + 2 " for folding .

A B = C 1 D1 .

2. UMBRELLA  SKIRT :---

A B = 14 1/2 "

B D = 14 1/2 "

A B = C D

B E = 1/6 waist = 3 3/4 "

B E = B F

Join in a curve shape measuring 11 1/2 " from the waist line curve .

3 . A - LINE SKIRT :---

A B = 1/2 ch + 2 "

B D = 11 1/2 " + 2 " for folding

B F = 1/2 "

B E = 5 1/2 " --- 1/4 th waist

4 . BOX PLEATED SKIRT :---

A B = 17 1/2 "

B D = 11 1/2 "

A B = C D

D F = C E

D F = 2 " for folding .

5 . 6 PIECES SKIRT :---

A B = 1/12 waist + 1/6 waist = 1 3/4 " + 3 3/4 " = 5 1/2 "

B D = 13 1/2 " + 1/2 "

A B = C D

B D = A C

DRESS MAKING - 40 .KINDS OF SLEEVES

KINDS OF SLEEVES

MEASUREMENTS :--

CHEST = 24 "

SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/4 ch = 6 "

SLEEVE BOTTOM = 1/4 ch + 2 "

PLAIN SLEEVE :---

A B = 1/4 ch = 6 "

B D = 1/4 ch + 2 " = 8 "

E A = 1/12 ch + 1 " = 3 "

D F = 1/4 ch - 1 " = 5 "

PUFF SLEEVES :--

A B = 1/4 ch + 2 " for gathers = 8 "

A A1 = 1/4 ch + 1/2 " = 6 1/2 "

A A1 = B C

A D = 1 1/2"

C D 1= 1 1/2"

D D1 =join   with sleeve shape .

A1G = 3/4 " down

join C G with dotted line.

FULL SLEEVE :---

A B = 1/4 ch = 6"

A C = sleeve length - 1 1/2 " (sleeve length = 2/3 rd ch )

A B = C D

A C  = B D

A E = 1/12 ch + 3"

join E B with  sleeve shape

D F = 1/4 ch - 1"

Join E F

D F center G . G H = 1/6 ch for opening of the sleeve .

BELL SLEEVE :---

A B = 1/2 ch + 2 " = 14 "


B D = 1/2 ch + 2 " = 14 "

A B = C D

B C straight line

B E = 1/8 ch

E F = 1/12 ch + 1/2 "

E E 1 = sleeve length + 3 / 4 "

F F 1 = 1/4 ch

Join F 1 X

X G = 3 /4 " out side

join G G1 with round shape .

join F 1 E front , back sleeve shapes .

DRESS MAKING - 39 .KINDS OF COLLARS

KINDS OF COLLARS :---

MEASUREMENTS :---

chest = 24 "

neck = 11"



ROUND COLLARS :---

A B = 1/2 neck + 1/2 "

A D = 1/12 th ch

A B = C D

A D =  B D

B C = center E

E F = 1/2 " out side

join C F B D collar shape .

FLAT COLLAR :---

A B = 1/2 neck + 1/2 "

A D = 2 1/2 "

A B = C D

B F = 1/2 " out side

C E = 1/2 " up

STANDING COLLAR :---

A B = 1/2 neck + 1/2 "

A D = 1 1/2 "

A B = C D

B E = 1/2 " out side

C F = 1/4" up

join  B E A in the collar shape .

MEN'S SHIRT COLLAR :---

A B = 1/2 neck + 1/2 "

A D = 1 1/2 "

A B = CD

B E = 1/2 " out side

C F = 2 1/2 " to 3 "

join the C E F with collar shape till the centre of A B line .

B A N D :---

A B = 1/2 neck + 1/2 "

A D = 1 1/4 "

A B = C D

B E = 1 1/2 " out side

C F = 11/2 " out side

E G ; F H = 1/4 "

Join G B till the center of A B line .
join H C  till the center of C D line.

DRESSING GOWN COLLAR :---

Adaptation of bodice block into collar .

A B = 4 "

C D = 2 "

E F = 2 "

G H = 1 1/2 " down .

join C E D with collar shape .

DRESS MAKING - 3 8 .NIGHT SUIT

  

NIGHT SUIT

MEASUREMENTS :---

SHIRT :---

CHEST = 36 "

LENGTH = 28 "

SHOULDER = 18 " --> 1/2 ch

SLEEVES = 24 " --> 2/3 rd ch

NECK = 15 " --> 1/3 rd  ch

PYJAMA :---

SEAT = 36 "

LENGTH = 40 " or 42 "

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :---SHIRT -- FRONT :---

A A1 = 1/3/4" for facing .

A 1 B = full length + 1 1/2 " for folding .

B X =1 3/4 " down for bottom shape .

A C = 1/4 ch

A D = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

D D1 straight line.

A C = D D1

D E = 3/4 down from  ' D '

A1E1 = 1/12 ch

A 1 F = 1/12 ch

E1 G  = 1"

Join E1G F  for neck neck.

D1H = 1/12 ch

join H E  with front  armhole shape.

C X = H D

POCKET :---

LENGTH = 1/6 th ch + 1/2 "

WIDTH = 1/6 th ch

2 " up from bottom and 2 " inside of the opening

BACK :---

F G 1 = 3/4  " up

E 1G 1 = back  neck join.

H E   join  for  back armhole  shape.

SLEEVES :---

A B = full length + 1/2 "

A C = 1/4 ch

A B = CD

C E = 1/12 ch + 1"

B F = 1/4 th ch - 1/2 "

join E F , A E front and back sleeve shapes .

COLLAR :---

A B = 1/2 neck + 1/2 "

A C = 1/12 " ch

A B = C D

A  E = 3/4 " out side

A E join , E F , C F = 1/2 " up

F D join with curve shape .

PYJAMA :---

FRONT :---

A B = 25"

A C = 1/3 seat + 1"

C D = 1/3 seat + 1/12 seat

A E = 1/3 seat 

Join E E1 straight line

B F = 8 " ( 1/2 bottom - 1 " )

join D F with a curve for the inner leg .

join E D with a curve for the fork line .

BACK :--

join D E  with a straight line .

Go up 1 " from E  . Mark G.

Go out 1 1/2 " from D . Mark H , and 1 " from F . Mark I .

Join I H with a slight inner curve and G H with a curve for the back

fork line .

join A G with a straight line for the waist .

STITCHING :---

1. Keep 2 " extra along the length for the bottom hem . When finished it should

be 1 1/2 ".

2 . Keep 1/2 " extra  for the front and back fork line run and fell seam for the

inner legs .

3 . Keep 1/2 " extra for at the waist to have 1 " hem when finished for

passing the tape through .

DRESS MAKING - 37 .DRESSING GOWN

DRESSING GOWN :---

MEASUREMENTS :---

LENGTH OF BACK = 15 "

FULL LENGTH = 45 "

ROUND BUST = 36"

ROUND HIP = 40 "

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :----

1. Place the back and front of the bodice block side by side with

armholes facing eachother and with 1/2 " between the two .

2.Go down 7 " below the waist .Draw a line .

3 .Draw capital A B line . From capital A B line between the blocks

till the hip line .



4. On the waist line go out on either side 3/4 " mark capital C D

5 .Join the side of the back to capital C and F with a curve to fit in

to the shape of the body ( waist and hip ) and extend it down .

6 . On the hip line go out on either side 1 " or more from capital B .

7 . Join the side of the front from the armhole capital D and E

with a curve and extend it down .

8 .Go out 4 " from the waist line and 4 1/2" from the length line at


the bottom . Go up 2 " from the waist line . Join with straight line


capital I G and F I for the center front .

9 . Join the neck line to capital I since it is deep ' V ' (neck )

10 . Cut out a loose sleeve as with no gathers round the armhole but

with same fullness round the wrist and cuff . Keep 1/2 " extra for

seams at the sides and round the wrist .

11 . Cut out the collar , pockets and belt .

SLEEVES :---

length = 2 2 "

width = 9 " ( 1/4 bust )

A B = CD = 2 2 "

B C = A D = 9 "

E D =3 3/4 " (1/4 length of back )

C F = 1 1/2 "

Joining F E with a slight curve for the seam of the sleeve .

Go in 1 " from ' F ' mark ' G ' Join B and G with an outer curve for

the back and an inner curve for the front as in diagram .

1.Keep 1/2 " extra for stitching at side and round wrist 1/4 " extra at

armhole curve .

2.Attach the cuff round the wrist .

3 .Stitch the side seam .

4 .Attach the sleeve to the house - coat .

This is a simple long loose sleeve with out gathers round the armhole .

SEAMS AND PROCESS :---

1. Keep 1 " extra at the sides keep 2 1/2 " extra for the bottom hem and

1/2 " extra for shoulder of armhole seam .

2 .Extra cloth for front opening .

3 . Attach the sleeves to the dressing gown with a single long loose sleeve

with out gathers round the armhole .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :--

Nylon , printed .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :---

4 1/2  meters . 36 " width .

DRESS MAKING - 36 .BRASSIERE

BRASSIERE

MEASUREMENTS :---

LENGTH = 6 1/2 "

ROUND BUST = 28 " ( under bust )

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :---

A B = 15 1/2 " ( 1/2 bust + 1 1/2" for  darts  )

B C = 7 " ( 1/4 bust )

B D = 2 "

C E = 2 1/2 "

M is half way between A C

M E is 6 1/2 " ( length )

A G = 3 1/2 " ( for the front )

1 . Block A C E F G , forms the front of the brassiere .

2. Block E D B C forms the back .

3 .From M go out 1/2 " on both the sides towards A and C for

the darts 3/4 " each 3 " - 4 " long .

4 .From E take 1/2 " dart 1 1/2 " - 2 " long to fit under arm .

SEAMS AND PROCESS :---

1. All the parts are attached to each other with a bias binding .

Flat on the wrong side , except for cups , where the two parts

can be joined with a binding in the center .

2. Finish the edges with bias facing .

3 .Attach the straps . Try them on for proper length .

4 .Attach two strong elastic pieces on either side , before tacking the

hooks .

NOTE :--- You can buy a suitable brassiere in the market . Be sure it fits

you .Rip at open and copy the pattern on cloth . Stitch as it was for

another new bras .

DRESS MAKING - 35 . M E N ' S S H I R T

MEN ' S SHIRT

MEASUREMENTS :----

CHEST = 3 6"

LENGTH = 30 "

SHOULDER = 18 "----1/2 chest

SLEEVES = 24 "---2/3 chest

NECK = 1 3 "----1/3 chest + 3"

CUFF = 9 "---> 1/4 th chest

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :----

FRONT SIDE :---

A B = full length +1/2 "

A A 1 = 1/24 th chest for facing

A 1 C = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

A 1 D = 1/4 ch

A 1 C = C 1D

C 1 D 1 = 1/12 th ch - 1/2 "

D 1 E = D B

A 1 F 1 = 1/2 ch - 3 "

F F1 = join

F G = 1/2 " inside

E X = 1/6 th  chest

EY = 1/6 chest

join D 1 G for side shape

join X Y with round shape .

C H = 1 1/2 " down

A 1 H 1 = 1/12 th ch

A 1 I  =1/12 th ch

H 1 I = neck join

H H1 = shoulder join

D 1 H = armhole join

BACK SIDE :----

A J = 2 " down from A

join J J1 = J 1 K = 1/ 12 th ch

J L =  1 1/2 " for pleat

H D 1 back armhole join

SLEEVES :---

A B = 1/4 ch

A C = sleeve length - 1 1/2 " for cuff .

A B = C D

D E = 1/6 th  ch + 1/2 "

A F = 1/12 ch + 1 "

join E F . join B F with front and back sleeve shapes .

D E center G .

G H = 1/6 th chest on ( for opening of sleeves )

SHOULDER :---

A B = 1/2 shoulder + 1 1/2 "

A C = 1/8 th ch

A B = C D

A E =1/24 th ch ; B F = 1/12 th ch ; B G = 1/24 th ch

E G back neck join ; E F shoulder join .

COLLAR :---

A B = 1/2 neck ; A C = 1 1/2 " ; A B = C D

C E = 1/12 th + 1/2 " ; A D center F . join E F with curve shape .

B A N D :---

A D = 1/2 neck ; A C = 1 1/4 " ; A B = C D

A E , C F = 1 1/2 " out side from A

join E F 1 ; G H = 3 /4 " ; join A and H

CUFF :---

A B = 1/4 th ch + 1/2 " = 9 1/2 "

A C = 2 1/ 2"

A B = CD

POCKET :---

WIDTH = 1/8 th

LENGTH = 1/8 ch + 1/2 "

SEAMS AND PROCESS :---

1 . Yoke is double . Join the yoke to the back with gathers or pleats .

Join yoke and back to front with the shoulder seam .

2 . Stitch the sleeve on the armhole with french seam .

3 .Sleeve and side seams are stitched in one process .

4 .Keep 1 1/2 " extra for front opening which should be done first

before joining the yoke .

5 .Hem 1 1/2 " at bottom .

6 .Make button holes on the left side .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :---

POPLIN , CHECKED MATERIAL , TERYLENE AND COTTON .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :----

Two full lengths + 1 sleeve length + 5 "