Sunday, April 25, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 33 .C H O L I B L O U S E






                              





















MEASUREMENTS :---

chest = 36 "

length = 15 " ---> 1/2 ch - 3 "

shoulder = 1/6 ch + 1 1/2 "

waist loose = ch - 4 " or 6 "

sleeve length = 1/4 ch

sleeve bottom =1/4 ch + 2 "

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :----

BACK SIDE :----

AB = Length + 1"

A C = 1/4 ch - 1/2 "

C C 1= 1/4 ch + 1 1/2 "

A D = 1 /2 shoulder + 1/4 "

D D1 straight line down

A E = 1/ 12 ch

D E 1 = 1/ 2 " down from D

join E E 1

A F = 1 " ; join E F with back neck shape .

join C 1 E 1 with back armhole shape

C C1 = B B1

B 1 G = 1/2 " inside

join C 1 G

B G center X , Put dart . Dart length should be 3 1/2 " .

FRONT SIDE :---

A F 1 = 5 "

join EF 1 front neck

join C E 1 front armhole shape .

B 1 I = 3 "


X Y = 2 "

G J = 2 "

Join J I with curve shape .

divide width in to 3 parts .

join choli cut shape from neck to second part .

leave 1/4 " extra for stitching .

Between armhole and choli curve = 2 1/2 ".

Make a curve from 3 " inside the neck to second part of the width .

BAND :----

A B = 3 1 /2 "


A C = 1/4 waist

A B = C D

D D 1 = 2 1/2 "

E E 1 =2 1/2 "

Join A E 1 D 1 .

SLEEVES :----

A C = sleeve length + 1 1/2 "

A B = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

A B = C D


A E = 1/ 12 ch

join E B with front and back sleeve shapes .

C F = 1 "
inside

join E F with side shape .

join E B with front and back sleeve shapes .























SEAMS AND PROCESS :-----

1 . Plain seams at sides and shoulder .

2 . Hem at sleeve bottom and blouse waist .

3 .Neck should finished with false hem or piping .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :-----

Printed , poplin , any soft material .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :----

2 full lengths + 1 sleeve length + 3 "









Thursday, April 22, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 32 .UNIFORM SKIRT

UNIFORM SKIRT

MEASUREMENTS :----

AGE :--- 3 to 5 years .

LENGTH :---- 14 " (12 " + 2 " )

( from waist to knee )


WIDTH :--- Double of the waist loose .

METHOD :---

Cut the waist band from the length of the material .

Stitch the box pleats on the width of the material . Attach the waist band to the

pleats . Stitch 4 " placket opening . Hem at bottom .


SUITABLE  MATERIAL :---

Long cloth , poplin , casement .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :---

Two lengths.


Wednesday, April 21, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 31 .B O Y ' K U R T H A



















                 
B O Y ' K U R T H A

MEASUREMENTS :----

CHEST = 20 "

LENGTH = CH - 2 " = 18 "

SHOULDER = 1/2 CH = 10 "

KALI LENGTH = 2/3 LENGTH = 12 " + 1 " = 13 "

KALI WIDTH = 2/3 SHOULDER = 7 "

SLEEVES :---

LENGTH = 2/3 LENGTH = 12 " + 1 " = 13 "

WIDTH = SHOULDER = 10 "

SEAM :----

LENGTH = 3 " ( 1/4 CH - 2 " )

WIDTH = 3 " ( 1/4 CH - 2 " )

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :----

MIDDLE PART OF THE KURTHA :---

A B = 1/2 SHOULDER

A C = FULL LENGTH = 18 "

A B = C D

A C = B D

B E = 1/12 CH

B F = 1/12 CH  for  FRONT NECK

E F  join  FRONT NECK

B G = 1/2 " down BACK NECK

E G = JOIN CURVE FOR BACK NECK

CUTTING OF KALI:----

A B = 7 " KALI WIDTH

A C = 13 " KALI LENGTH

A E = 1/12 CH

D F = 1/12 CH

E F = JOIN

SLEEVE :---

A B = 13 " ( LENGTH )----2/3 LENGTH

AC = 5 "( WIDTH )-----( 1/2 SHOULDER )

AB = CD

AC = BD

SEAM :----

A B = 3 " ( 1/4 " CH - 2 " )

A C = 3 " ( 1/4 " CH - 2 " )

A B = C D

A C = B D

SEAMS AND PROCESS :---

1. Join kali 's to middle of the kurtha with run and

fell seam .

2 . join sleeves on the kali 's with run and fell seam .

3 . keep the sleeve 1/2 " inside the shoulder and stitch with

run and fell seam .

4 . hem at sleeve bottom .

5 . neck should finish with facing .

6 . opening should finish with two straps opening .

7. stitch buttons and button hole stitch on the opening .












SUITABLE MATERIAL :---

1 . LAWN , CAMBRIC , GLASCO

CLOTH ESTIMATION:---2 LENGTHS + 2 SLEEVE LENGTHS.