Sunday, May 2, 2010

DRESS MAKING - 35 . M E N ' S S H I R T



MEN ' S SHIRT





MEASUREMENTS :----

CHEST = 3 6"

LENGTH = 30 "

SHOULDER = 18 "

SLEEVES = 24 "

NECK = 1 3 "

CUFF = 9 "---> 1/4 th chest

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :----

FRONT SIDE :---

A B = full length +1/2 "

A A 1 = 1/24 th chest for facing

A 1 C = 1/2 shoulder + 1/4 "

A 1 D = 1/4 ch

A 1 C = C 1D

C 1 D 1 = 1/12 th ch - 1/2 "

D 1 E = D B

A 1 F 1 = 1/2 ch - 3 "

F F1 = join

F G = 1/2 " inside

E X = 1/6 th ch

join D 1 G for side shape

join X Y with round shape .

C H = 1 1/2 "

A 1 H 1 = 1/12 th ch

A  I =1/12 th ch

H 1 I = neck join

H H1 = shoulder join

D 1 H = armhole join

BACK SIDE :----

A J = 2 " down from A

join J J1 = J 1 K = 1/ 12 th ch

J L 1 1/2 " for pleat

H D 1 back armhole join

SLEEVES :---

A B = 1/4 ch

A C = sleeve length - 1 1/2 " for cuff .

A B = C D

D E = 1/6 th + 1/2 "

A F = 1/12 ch + 1 "

join E F . join B F with front and back sleeve shapes .

D E center G .

G H = 1/6 th chest on ( for opening of sleeves )

SHOULDER :---

A B = 1/2 shoulder + 1 1/2 "

A C = 1/8 th ch

A B = C D

A E =1/24 th ch ; B F = 1/12 th ch ; B G = 1/24 th ch

E G back neck join ; E F shoulder join .

COLLAR :---

A B = 1/2 neck ; A C = 1 1/2 " ; A B = C D

C E = 1/12 th + 1/2 " ; A D center F . join E F with curve shape .

B A N D :---

A D = 1/2 neck ; A C = 1 1/4 " ; A B = C D

A E , C F = 1 1/2 " out side from A

join E F 1 ; G H = 3 /4 " ; join A and H

CUFF :---

A B = 1/4 th ch + 1/2 " = 9 1/2 "

A C = 2 1/ 2"

A B = CD

POCKET :---

WIDTH = 1/8 th

LENGTH = 1/8 ch + 1/2 "

SEAMS AND PROCESS :---

1 . Yoke is double . Join the yoke to the back with gathers or pleats .

Join yoke and back to front with the shoulder seam .

2 . Stitch the sleeve on the armhole with french seam .

3 .Sleeve and side seams are stitched in one process .

4 .Keep 1 1/2 " extra for front opening which should be done first

before joining the yoke .

5 .Hem 1 1/2 " at bottom .

6 .Make button holes on the left side .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :---

POPLIN , CHECKED MATERIAL , TERYLENE AND COTTON .

CLOTH ESTIMATION :----

Two full lengths + 1 sleeve length + 5 "


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