DRESS MAKING - 3 .RAGLAAN SLEEVE JABLA

RAAGLAAN   SLEEVE   JABLA

  


 
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.Make bound button hole at the   center of the front portion .


                                Attach   sleeves

 


 
 Attach    cross  piece   to  the  neck part.

 
 Turn  the   cross   piece  and  hem  at  neck.
 

 Run and fell seam at sides . Hem at bottom and sleeves .

 

        Insert   lace   from  the  whole  and  tie  at neck .

 
                       Finished    garment.
 

KINDS OF JABLA

MEASUREMENTS :---

Chest = 18 "

Length =15 "

Construction of lines :----

A B =Full length + 1 1/2 " for folding .

A C = 1 /4 chest +4 "

A B =C D

C E =1/ 12 chest inside from c

C E 1 = 1/4 chest

join E E 1

A F = 1 /12 chest - 1/2 "

join E F with curve shape .

SLEEVES :----

A B = 1/4 chest +2 "

B D = 1 /4 chest + 2 "

A B =C D

A E =1 / 12 chest + 1 / 2 "

A E 1 = 1/4 chest

join E E1

C G = 1/2 " inside

join E 1 G C .

SEAMS AND PROCESS :----
1.Run and fell  seam at sides.
2.Hem at bottom and sleeves.
3.Make  bound button hole at the center of the front portion.

 


 
 .

.



 


 





.Make bound button hole at the center of the front portion .


                                Attach   sleeves

 


 
 Attach    cross  piece   to  the  neck part.

 
 Turn  the   cross   piece  and  hem  at  neck.
 

 Run and fell seam at sides . Hem at bottom and sleeves .

 

        Insert   lace   from  the  whole  and  tie  at neck .

 
                       Finished    garment.
 



CLOTH ESTIMATION :----

Two full lengths +3 ".
 SUITABLE MATERIAL :-----

Printed , poplin , lawn , cambric .

DRESSMAKING - 2. JABLA

JABLA

JABLA

                                     

JABLA

MEASURMENTS :----

CHEST = 18 "

LENGTH =15 "----CHEST - 3"

CONSTRUCTION OF LINES :-----

A B = Full length + 1/2 "

AC = 1/4 Chest + 4 "

A B = C D

AC = B D

C E =1 / 6 Chest inside from C

C F =1 /4 Chest - 1 /2 "

F G =1 1/2 " Inside from F

G D = Join with straight line .

F D =Join with curve shape .

A A 1 =1 1 /2 " down from ' A'

E A 1 =Join with round shape .

SEAMS AND PROCESS :----

 1. Run and fell seam at sides .

 2.Hem at bottom and sleeves .

3.Make  bound button hole  at the center  of the  front portion.

CLOTH ESTIMATION :-----

Two full lengths .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :----

Printed , Poplin , lon , cambric .




   

 


 

 


 


 



 

 


 



 


 

 
  . Make bound button whole at the center of the front portion .


 






 

 

 
      Run and fell seam at sides . Hem at bottom and sleeves .
 

 
                           Finished    garment.
 

CLOTH ESTIMATION :-----

Two full lengths .

SUITABLE MATERIAL :----

Printed , Poplin , lon , cambric .

DRESS MAKING - PATTERN MAKING THEORY - 1 . JANGIA

FUNDAMENTALS OF TAILORING - FLANNEL PATCH

FLANNEL PATCH :---Shape of the patch :--May be either square or rectanglar .Preparation of patch :---It should be 1 " bigger all round than the area to be repaired the edges must be cut straight by a thread . N o turnings are made .
Placing of the patch on the garment :---The right side of the patch is placed on the wrong side of garment . The centre of patch over centre of hole . Selvedge is by selvedge straight by a thread , with wrap line in the same direction as that of the garment . Carefully pin the two selvedge sides in position first . Tack as close to the edge as possible , biginning in the middle of a selvedge side .

In order to assist in keeping the stitches level at the top ,a second row of tacking can be done 4 or 5 threads above the edge . Herring bone the patch to the garment first .Then herring bone the hole . When working the corners of patch and hole , care must be taken to work squares at the corners .

PRITED PATCH

PRINTED PATCH :---Preparation for the printed patch is the same as for

plain patch , after matching the print all round , except that the wrong side of

the patch is placed on the right side of the garment .

Match the pattern by one selvedge side first and pin carefully in position . Then match the

second selvedge side with the print pin carefully in position , fold under the selvedgesides 1/4" .

Match one weft side then the other pinning carefully in position ,


fold under edges 3/8" . All corners must be square . Remove the pins

and carefully pressed in

the folds . Fold the patch in half inch away press the creases firmly . Place wrong side of the

patch on the right side of the garment . Place selvedge threads by

selvedge threads but matching

the pattern not necessarily keeping by a straight thread . The center of the

patch is placed over

the center of the hole . Pin the two selvedge sides first and then the two

weft sides . Tack close to

the edge starting in the middle of a selvedge side .


Top sew the patch neatly all round , being careful to hold the patch

towards the worker .Do not

work too tightly and carefully flatten each side . Just worked , before

starting the adjecent side

.By holding the patch towards the worker the patch is kept flat .

Finishing the hole :---Turn the wrongside of the work towards the worker

and make diagonal creases as in the plain patch "measure 3/8 " from the

stitches on these diagonal creases . Insert the scissors into the fold and cut

along the diagonal creases into these points , all of which should be straight

by a thread . Fold back these flaps of the hole level with the turnings of the

patch loop stitch the raw edges .

PLAIN PATCH

PATCHES  

A Patch is a form of mending and is used to

cover holes or any torn parts of the garment with the same kind of material . It

is done in places where darning cannot be done .

there are three kinds of patches :---

1. Plain Patch :---In this the seam used is called " counter hem seam " . Here the

size of the sampler 6 " or 6 1/ 2 " square and that of the patch piece is 3 " or

3 1/ 2 " square . The patch can either be a square or rectangle . The patch piece

should be 3 /4 " to 1 " bigger than the hole all round . The patch should be

as inconspicuous as possible and this can be done efficiently as possible using

suitable stitches , threads and working neatly with matching material . The patch

piece should be of the same color , strength and appearance . If necessary

the patch piece may be washed several times to bring it to the same strength

and color . The thread used should be cotton on cotton , wool on wool , silk on silk

. The selvedge and weft threads of the patch piece and the sampler must be made

to match correctly .To work a plain patch place the right side of the patch piece

over the wrong side of the sampler and straight by the selvedge threads . The weft

threads must be straight by the weft threads of the sampler . Place the patch piece

over the sampler taking care to see that the patch piece falls over the centre of the

hole. Fold 1 / 4 " of an inch alround and then pin the selvedge sides first . Next ,

pin the two weft sides . Tack close to the edge starting in the middle of a selvedge

side .

fell the patch neatly alround , starting either in the corner of one of the sides or

from the middle of one of the selvedge sides . The latter is better as it lessens bulk

in the corners and prevents the corner from getting out of shape .

FINISHING OF THE HOLE :---Turn the right side of the work towards

the worker and make diagonal creases across the patch from the

corners .Measure 1/4 " on the diagonal creases from the corners. Insert

the scissors into the hole and cut along the diagonal creases up to

these points , all of which should be straight . Fold back these flaps of

the hole level with these points and cut . Snip these along the

diagonals

1 / 6 " above the corners of the hole . Fold these raw edges , under

starting with the selvedge side and using the needle to turn back the

edges carefully at the corners . Tack close to the edge then finish the

adjecent side and continue thus till all the sides are completed .

Holding the right side of the work with the patch towards the worker

,top - sew or hem the edge of the hole of the patch , being careful to

flattern eachside .