OILING:---It is necessary to oil the machine once a weak . If you use it

infrequently , then once a month should be sufficient . To oil throughly ,

remove the upper , needle plate , slide plate ,face plate , bobbin case ,

needle and presser foot . Read the instruction manual for location of

parts needing application of oil .One drop of oil is enough for each

point . while oiling turn the fly wheel back and front to help the oil

flow to the moving parts . After oiling the points on the head of the

machine till the machine head back to oil the points on the under

side . Before you close the machine run it slowly for several minutes

on on a weast piece of material and keep the material under the

presser foot. The fabric will absorbs the excess oil .

CARE OF THE MACHINE

CARE OF THE MACHINE

Regular cleaning , Oiling and care of the machine ensure satisfactory

sewing and a long life for the machine . When not in use , keep your

machine covered to prevent dust from settling on it .

CLEANING :---You should always remove lint deposits , dust and threads

bits before oiling any part of the machine . Use a small dry brush or

old cloth to remove dust and lint . To clean the feel dog , remove the

needle plate of the machine and brush off durt .To clean the shuttle

race , remove the two screws holding the shuttle race assemble to the

machine , take out the shuttle race and wipe its groove free of dirt

,fluff and broken bits of thread .

ADJUSTING THE STITCH LENGTH :---To adjust the stitch length , loosen the stitch regulator knob ,

move it to the desired number on the marked plate and

tighten the knob . On local method models of machines ,

the higher numbers denote longer stitches. It recent models of

machines the the stitch regulator also has a setting for reverse

stitching .

ADJUSTING THE PRESSURE OF THE PRESSURE FOOT :--Ordinarily this adjustment need not be done for sewing on fabrics of

medium texture . In general , coarse fabrics require a heavier presser

while sheer fabrics require light pressure only . The presser foot bar

screw is turned to the right to increase pressure and to the left to

decrease pressure .

ADJUSTMENTS

Testing and adjusting tension :---When there is perfect balance of

tension between the upper and lower threads , the stitches lock

or meet together in the middle of the thickness of the cloth .

when the upper tension is too tight , the spool thread lies

straight on the top of the fabric and the upper thread

appears like loops on the upper side of the cloth . If the

upper tension is to loose , the upper thread lies straight

on the upper side of the fabric and the upper thread

appears like loops on the underside .An easy method of recognising tension is to stitch diagonally

across a square of fabric folded on , and then to stretch the cloth firmly between your fingers

until one or both threads break . The thread which is broken is always the one with tighter

tension . If the tensions are balanced break together and require more force to break . To



increase or decrease upper tension , turn the screw on the tension regulator with the presser

foot down .In turning this screw remember that right is tight and left is loose . Usually there will be


numbers written on the tension dial . To increase tension you should turn towards the higher

numbers and to decrease , towards the lower numbers .

Avoid changing the lower tension unless you are sure that the

tension cannot be corrected completely by adjusting the top one alone .

The lower tension is adjusted by turning the small screw on the

bobbin case using a screw driver . usually the screw is turned to the

right to tighten and to the left to loosen . Make a very slight turn only

each time .

FASTENING THE THREAD ENDS :---It is necessary to fasten the threads at the ends of

stitching lines which are not to be later this can be

done in two ways .

1. Stitch back a short distance along the seam before cutting the

thread . This is called privoting .

2.After to have reached the end of stitching line pull the back and cut

the threads lining a length of about 5" to 6" .Pick up the last stitch

with a pin and so as bring out both thread ends to the wrong side

of the fabric . Now tie a double knot .

SEWING ON FABRIC :---Pull the upper and under threads straight back under the presser foot

place the cloth to be stitched under presser foot with the seam

allowances to the right of the needle .On the rest on the material to

the left .Now turn machine slowly guidings the material gently with

both your hands and then gradually increase the speed of the

stitching.

DRAWING THE BOBBIN THREAD :---Raise the take-up lever takes highest point

holding the end of the top thread turn the fly wheel around so that the needle

goes down , comes up to a highest position . Then pull the top thread to bring

the bobbin thread loop out .

WINDING THE BOBBIN :---The thread is placed first on a spool pin

and then drawn through the thread guide near the spool pin . Now

with your hand wind the end of the thread on the bobbin in clock

wise direction and place it on the winder .Turn the bobbin on the

winder until the pin like projection on fits in to the slate on the

bobbin thus holding the bobbin in place . Then press the winder lever

down until the rubber ring touches the fly wheel and is held there .

Loosen the thumb screw and run the machine holding the thread

and loosely .Make sure that the thread winds evenly until that you do

not fill the bobbin too full in . fill the bobbin about three fourth full .

UNDER THREADING :---In each bobbin case there is a slanting

spot and a spring . Insert the bobbin in to the bobbincase so that

the thread comes around the bobbin and turns back to lay in the

slot .Now guide the thread through the slot and below the spring

and pull out a length of thread .Test the tension on the bobbin

thread by pulling the thread gently .Now open the side plate lift the



latch on the bobbin case with your thumb and four finger and insert


the bobbin case in to the machine . close the slide plate .

TOP THREADING :---
Raise the take up lever to its height point before you start threading .

The spool of the thread is first placed on the spool pin and the thread

end is passed through a thread guide to the tension machanisam .

After drawing the thread between the tension discs and through the

take -up spring pass the end of the thread through the hole in the take -

up lever .Now thread the remaining guide which leads to the needle and

insert in to the needle .

WEIGHT OF THE		TYPE OF CLOTH		THREAD SIZE		NEEDLE SIZE		STITCHES PER INCH
FABRIC
1.LIGHT		Muslin,cambric&		50		9 to 11		14 -20
		other thin fabrics.
2.Medium		shirting,sheetings		40 -50		14		12
		poplin
3.Medium Heavy		Light woollens,		40		16		10 to12
		brocade,carduroy
4.Heavy		woollen goods,		20 -40		18		10
		upholstry fabrics

OPERATING THE MACHINE

As mentioned earlier manufacturers supply an instruction manual with each sewing machine .It is essential to read this book carefully and follow the instructions . When you all learning to treadle , run the machine with the presser foot up and the clutch on fly wheel loosened . So that the needle does not go up and down . Start the machine by turning the fly wheel towards you to stop the machine place your hand on the fly wheel stop the motion of the feet.

STITCHING ALONG THE LINE :----Practice stitching on proper along

line of various shapes straight lines , curve lines , lines with

corners and lines broken until you can control the machine .

SELECTION OF THREAD AND NEEDLE :----A perfect stitch can be

obtained only when the thread is selected to suit the material to be

stitch and the needle is the correct size . For stitching on

delicate thin fabrics use fine thread and fine needle for thin facrics

use needle and thread should be larger .

USE AND CARE OF THE SEWING MACHINE

Parts of a machine and their function :--- The basic parts of a sewing are listed

below most of these parts are stark of .

1 .SPOOL PIN :--- Hold the spool of the thread .

2 .THREAD GUIDE :---Hold the thread in position from the spool to the

needle .

3 . TENSION DISC :---This is a simple mechanism where two

concave discs are put together , with the convex sides facing each

other . The thread passes between the two . The tension of the

thread is adjusted by a spring and a nut . which increases are

decreases the pressure on on the disc .

4 . Take - up lever :----At the out side end of this lever , there is a

small whole through which the thread passes . this lever moves

down to loosen the top thread while the stitch is being found . Then

it moves up and pulls the loop of thread tight to complete

the stitch .

5. NEEDLE BAR :--This is a steel rod which holds the needle at one

end with the help of a clamp .

6.BOBBIN CASE :---This moves in to position to catch the top thread and form the stitch

as the needle is lowered in the bobbin chamber .

7. PRESSER FOOT :--This moves in to position to catch the top thread and form the stitch

as the needle is lowered in the bobbin chamber .

8 .PRESSERFOOT LIFTER :--This is a lever attached to the presser bar for

raising and lowering the presser foot .

9. STITCH REGULATER :---This controls the length of the stitch . some

regulaters can be set to stitch in reverse .

10 . BOBBIN WINDER :---This helps the winding of thread on the bobbin , some are made to

stop automatically when the bobbin is full .

11.FLY WHEEL :---When this is made to revolve it works the machanisam of the machine .

12. CLUCH OR THUMB SCREW :---This is in the centre of the fly wheel and it engages and disengages the stitching

machanisam .

13.SLIDE PLATE :--This is a rectangular plate which can be slide open to

remove or to put in the bobbin case .

14. NEEDLE PLATE :---This is a semi circular plate with the whole to allow the needle to

pass through .

15. FEED DOG :---This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate . it

helps the cloth move forward while sewing .

16. FACE PLATE :---This is a cover which when remove gives axis oiling on needle bar , presser bar and take -up - lever .

17 .SPOOL PIN OR BOBBIN WINDING :---Spool of thread is placed on this at the time of winding the bobbin .

PRESSING TOOLS

IRONING BOARD :---This should be of convenient height and should be

well padded . One may are ordenary table covered with sheet and blanket for

this purpose .

IRON :--Keep an automatic iron handy for pressing fabric before cutting ,

during construction and after the garment is completed .

SLEEVE BOARD :---This is useful for ironing small parts like sleeves of a

garments .It has a tapered end on one side and a round end on the other

side . This also should be padded .

PRESS CLOTH :---Fabrics used as press cloth should be colour fast and

should be washed or bated to remove all sizing .

DRESS FORM :---This is a padded form of body and made of wood ,

cordboard , plates , reinforced plastic etc . This is useful for designing dresses

by drafting and also to check correct fitting .

MIRROR :--A full length mirror is useful for checking whether the garments

is well filling in size and design .

CUTTING BOARD OR TABLE :---A table of convenient height and size is a

defenate aid in cutting consructing garments 5 ' / 3 ' is a desirable size . Height

can be about 2 1/2 ' .

SEWING THREAD :---Select a good quality thread of reliable brand matching to fabric in

colour and size . While matching the colour , buy threads that looks

slightly darker than the fabrics various of threads like cotton , silk

terylene and nylon threads and available in the market .

ORANGE STICK :--This is a long tool whose point can be inserted into the


corners of collars , seams etc .So as to give a neat pointed appearance .

SEAM RIPPER :---This is useful for ripping out machine stitches .It has a

handle and a bent point which can inserted into the stitches and pulled

to the break them .

GENERAL TOOLS :---

PIN ' S :---Use of pin's for basting and fixing of pattern pieces on to fabric

makes your work easier , quicker and more accurate . select sharp thin medium

length pins that will not leave pin marks on the fabric .

PIN CUSHION :---It is convenient to have a pin cushion with an

elastic strap that can be fasten to the wist .Select a pin cushion

made of wool as felt and filled with wool or hair .

MARKING TOOLS

DRESS MARKER"S CARBON :----This is a tracing paper with one side waxed and is available in

different colours . It is used to transfer pattern mark such as seam

lines lines , darts , pleats etc . from paper patters to the fabric

being cut .

TRACING WHEEL :---This is a sharp - tolled wheel used with dress

maker's carbon to transfer pattern marking to the cloth . Select a

wheel with a firm sharp points test it to make sure that it does not

bend easily and that the points are not blunt .

TAILOR 'S CHALK :---This is used marking seam lines and other patterns

details on fabrics as an aid in stitching this is available is assorted colours

and in rectangular or triangular shapes .

HEM MARKER :---Though this is useful for proffessional hem marking

it is not a common sewing tool . This is used to mark out completely

level hem line in chalk . It can be adjusted to any hem length .

SMALL RULLER :_- A small transparent ruler of 6 " length divided

into 1/8 " or 1/6 " divisions on one side and centimeters on the other

side is useful for measuring small distances for tucks , hems , facings , etc .

HEM GUAGE :---A six inch guage can be made of cardboard or bought from

the shop . It is used as a measuring guide for making width

of hems , pleats , seams allowances etc accurately. notches are

provided at regular intervals along the guage . one edge of

the notch is at right angles of the straight edge of the guage

while the other edge is slanted while measuring or marking

use the straight ( not slanted ) edge of the notch as the guides .

METER SCALE :----Now a days meter scales are more popular than yard sticks .

these may be wooden , plastic or metal .they are useful for

checking long lines . When fixing pattern piece on material and

for drawing long seam lines on fabric or paper .

L . scale :---This has a perfect right angle corners and is used to draw- lines

at right angle at the time of drafting . It has two arms or sides , one

side is usually 24 " long and then other 12 " long . It is helpful

during the process of straightening fabric to check whether the

corners of the fabric have got the right angled structure .

MEASURING TOOLS :---

MEASURING TAPE :---Select a firm good quality tape which not stretch after use . It is

usually about 1 " to 1/4 " wide and 60 " long , and has 1/8 "

divisions . Since the metric system is being used throughout India

now . Most of the measuring tapes have centimetre markings along


one edge and inches markings at the other edge . At one end of


the tape is attached a brass strip



about 3" long and at the other end ,a small brass covering .