DARNING

Darning is that method in which new threads are supplied in

the place of thin or worn out woven once. It is a form of

hand weaving or an imitation of the process adopted in the

manufacture of fabrics .

FUNDAMENTAL RULES FOR DARNING :----

1. Prevent a whole from from forming by strengthening a thin place .

2. Begin at the left hand side of the part to darned because ,

(a ) It is easier to see any pattern that has to be repeated in the darn .

(b) The hand does not cover up the darn while it is in progress .

(c) The hand does not rub over the mending which might fray or

become rough looking .

3. Darns should be an irregular shape of , so as that the strain of

new threads is not born by the same line of threads so as to give

risk to fresh weaknesses . The diagonal shape is the most

practical .

4. Loop 's 1 / 10 th should be left to allow for shrinking . The ends of the thread are left hanging

1/4 " and not fastened off . the threads of the darn being so woven in as to make the fastening unnecessary .

5. The thread used should be as like the original as possible in color texture and stranding . The

general rule is silk on silk , wool on wool and cotton on cotton . Silk together with wool on wool

gives greater strength .

6.The darn must in no way strain the material or cause puckring . the work must be kept flat by

keeping the thumb on the thread as it is pulled through the material .

NEEDLES :---The needles used are longer than sewing needles and have longer eyes . this is so because

(a) A long needle can take up a greater number of stitches .

(b) A large eye makes it easier for threading with the particular thread .

POSITION OF NEEDLES :---Most darns are formed by rows of threads worked from the

chest and to the chest up rows - from the chest and down down rows - towards the chest .

THE HEDGE OR ' L ' TEAR :---The tear usually happens on the dresses or outer garments

and some sharp surface . The marerial tears with the thread . The corner is often irregular as

this is the place in tearing where the strain has been the greatest . As a rule

the selvedge threads give way less being stronger and the weft being weaker give way more .

Because of this the tear is very often longer but the weft threads and is often more frayed

and irregular .

MATERIALS USED :--- As in all darns the thread should match the

marerial in all respects as far possible and no .7 and no . 8 needles should be used . A selvedge

thread from the material

a sufficiantly strong will give the best result and make the darn less visible .

WORKING :----Draw the edges carefully with fishbone stitch . If the

material is fine and of a kind which frays badly , fasten the position with the wrongside upper

most over a piece of stiff paper or thin card -board , this makes a firm surface to work up on

and puckering is less likely to occur.

HOLDING OF WORK :--Hold the work as for darning a hole over the first and second

fingers with the thumb and third finger on top to hold the work in position .

METHOD :----As a general rule , the darn is worked on the

wrong side and the method illustrated in the diagram is suitable

for materials of medium thickness . Begin the darning weft way of the material

holding the work so that the wrap way of the threads lies along the finger .

COMMENCEMENT :--Working as for a thin place darn begin at the

left hand side , 1/4 " to 3 / 8 " to the left and above or below . Take up 1 , 2 , or

3 threads on the needle passing over the same amount and each row having

the same number of stitches . work within

a 1/4" or 3/8" beyond the tear . Turn the work round and work the

otherside in exactly the same manner to within 1/4" or 3/8 "

beyond the tear .

The thumb must always be kept on the slit when drawing the

thread through as this prevents un - ravelling and keeps

the darn flat . The space between the rows is equl to the depth of the stitch .

KNIFE - CUT OR BREAKFAST DARN :---This is generally the result of the careless use of a

knife which cuts across both weft and selvedge threads and in consequence requires careful

darning .

The cut may be at any angle .

MATERIAL USED :---Any kind of cotton which matches the material is suitable for practical

purposes . If a selvedge thread can be pulled out from the fabric itself and is sufficiently strong ,

it will give the best result . A fine darning needle no . 7 or 8 should be used .

PREPARATION OF DARN :---If the fabric is one which frays badly ,

it is sometime simple if the edge are carefully drawn together

with small fish-bone stitches not very closely worked using a veryfine cotton and needle .It this

stitch is used , the needle is inserted about 1 / 6 " from the end of the slit and from the wrong . It

is pulled through the right side . Insert the needle into the slit and bring it out

1/6" beyond the stitch on the opposite side . The following stitches

are worked in the same manner , always inserting the needle in to the slit and bringing it out 1/6

" out-side the edge of the slit . By

this means all the raw edges are kept on the wrong side . The stitches are removed when the

darn is complete .

APPLYING FRENCH BINDING

APPLYING FRENCH BINDING :---This is used on shear fabrics .

For this you must cut bias strip i . e . 6 times the desired finished

width . Fold the strip in half , wrong sides together and press .

Stitch raw edges of binding to the garment on the right side and hem

the folded edge to stitching line on the wrong side .

SINGLE BIAS BINDING

APPLYING SINGLE BIAS BINDING :-----Cut a bias strip that is twice

the finished width two seam allowances . Tack the strip to the

garment right sides facings . For binding streach the bias inward

curves and is it on outward curves . Stitch the binding to the

garment with a plain seam . Trim the seam as wide as the finished

binding . Turn under 1/8" to 1/4 " on the outer edge of the bias

and fold it over the seam on the wrong side . Now hem the fold to

line of stitching using hemming stitches .

BINDINGS

BINDINGS
BIAS BINDING :--- Bias binding is used to finish and strenghtened

and to add a decorative finish to a garment . It shows both on the

right side and wrong side . It is use to finish neck lines , armholes

sleeve edges front closings collars , cuffs and seams . It can be

used to straight , curved or gathered and irregular edges . When

finished bias binding should have uniform width ( less than 1/4 " )

and should like flat and smooth without any stitch seen on the

right side .

There are two kinds of bindings . Single binding and double binding

. ( french bindings ) . Binding may be prepared are may be brought

commercial bias binding .

DECORATIVE FACING

APPLYING DECORATIVE FACING :--Decorative shaped facings are applied almost the same way as

inside facings .But firstly the rightside of this facing must be

matched to the wrongside of the garment . Secondly if it is to

be applied to the neck line , the should seam of the garment

should be reversed . Just inside the outer finished edge of the

facing . This is to prevent the raw edges of the shoulder seam

from showing at the neckline . Unlike inside facing decorative

facings are usually made with scallopes points or other designs

along the edge . Bias facings can aiso be applied right side of the

garment for decorative effect . But no edge designs are possible

with this facing . The decorative effect has to be obtained by the

use of different combinations of colours or prints or checks darts etc ...

SHAPED FACING

SHAPED FACING :---The shaped facing is cut to the exact shape of the garment edge to

which it is to be applied . Usually it is cut on the same grain as the

sectoin of the garment . Shaped facing is often used to finish square

or " v " neck lines or scalleped edges . It is easier to apply

than bias facing and is less conspicuous . It is usually cut

separately for front and back and these pieces are joined by a

plain seam finish the outer edge of the facing by turning up the

edge and stitching it .Carefully tack the facing up the edge and

stitching it . Carefully tack the facing to the garment right sides facing

and seam lines , centre lines and notches matching . Trim and clip .

Turn the facing to the wrong side under stitch it to the seam and hem

the folded edge of the facing to the garment .

BIAS FACING

BIAS FACING :---Stay stitch edge of garment to be faced . Take bias strip to edge of

garment , right sides facing , beginning , at a seam for inward

curves the bias must


be eased and for outward curves it must be streatched . Trim the

seam to 1/4 " , clip at curves grade bulky seams and turn to wrong

side . At this point you may under stitch the facing to the seam .

Turn under about 1/4 " along the outer edge of the bias strip and tack

on to the garment . Now hem or slip stitch the facing to the garment ..

FACINGS

FACINGS

These are used to provide a neat finish to the rawedges in a garment and to support the shape of necklines , armholes , collars etc ... When the edge to be faced is a straight line the facing may be cut in one piece with the garment section . Usually facings are applied separately .

There are two main types of facings - shaped facing and bias facing . Shaped facing can be of any width you like but bias facing should not be more than 1/2 " wide . Facings are usually turned to the inside of the garment and will not show when the garment is worn . Sometimes facings are turned to the outside of the garment for decorative effect .

CUTTING BIAS STRIPS

CUTTING BIAS STRIPS :--Fold the fabric diagonally so that the length wise

threads of the folded part fall parallel to the cross wise threads on the rest of

the material . If the grain lines cannot be clearly seen , mark the line with chalk

first . Measure from the fold the width of bias strip usually 1 1/4 " to 1 1/2 " and

draw parallal lines . cut strips along the marked lines and trim off ends along

warp threads .

JOINING BIAS PIECE :-- Place the two strips to be joined right sides facing and the edges

of the cut ends co - in -siding . The strips will now be at right

angles to eachother . Shift the top strip 1 1 / 4 " beyond the other

so that the sharp points at the ends of the strip project on eitherside

. Stitch a 1/4 " seam joining the points where the sides of the two

strips intersect . Press the seam open and trim the seam projections .

PREPARATION AND USES OF TRUE BIAS , FACINGS AND BINDINGS

PREPARATION AND USES OF TRUE BIAS , FACINGS AND BINDINGS

USE OF TRUE BIAS :---True bias false on a diagonal line to length wise and cross wise

grains . It has the maximum elasticity or in other words it

streatches more than any other direction on cloth . True bias is used

to finish row edges and especially curved edges such as neck lines

sleeve less armholes and scallops . The elasticity of bias permits it

to streach or contract and thus make the shape of any curved

edge giving it a flat smooth finish . Bias srtips can be applied

as facings and binding . In striped , checked or contrasing

coloured material it gives a decorative finish when used as a binding

or facing applied on the right side of the garment . Bias is also used

to finished raw edges of plain seams as well as seams which join to

color to neck line . cuffs to sleeves etc .. Fabric or bound button

holes piped seams and bias tubing are made using bias strips .

Bias tubing is useful for making small motifs for trimming dresses

and for preparing fabric loops .Which can be used decoratively in the

place of buttonholes .

CIRCULAR RUFFLE

CIRCULAR RUFFLE :---A strip of fabric is cut in a circular shape so that the top edge

measures equal to the part of the garment to which the ruffle is to be attached and the lower

edge measures more . To apply circular ruffles clip to edge , mark lines on which the ruffles are

to be stitched then tack and stitch .

FLOUNCES :---These are similar to frills and ruffles but are much wider . ( big frills)

DOUBLE RUFFLE

DOUBLE RUFFLE :---Gather the fabric to be ruffled through its centre and stitch it to the

garment through the centre along the gathers . As an added trimming

you can cover the gathers with a matching piping or narrow ribbon

stitched in place on top of the gathers .

RUFFLES OR FRILLS

RUFFLES :---These are used for the purpose of adding decoration to a garment .

Some times they are used at the hems of the skirts and dresses to

add length to the dress to make frills allow at least 1 1/2 times the

length of the piece to which the frill will be attached . The width of

the frill is usually anything from 1 " to 3" . The longer side should be

cut along the length wise of the material . The gathered edge of the

frill can be conceld in a seam , facing , binding or wide band .

SHIRRING

SHIRRING

When several rows of gathering ( three or more ) are required for decorative finish

there are called shirring .The rows should be evenly spaced . After drawing up the

gathers from each end towards the centre , and distributing them evenly bring the

machine threads to wrong side and tie up each pair separately .

Using a stay under shirring where extra strength is required a piece of fine

material should be cut to the shape of the shirring .Allowing some allowances .Fix

this to the shirred piece on the wrong side by hemming . Stitches should not

show on the right side .

GATHERING MADE BY USING ELASTIC

GATHERING MADE BY USING ELASTIC :--GATHERS CAN BE MADE BY STREACHING A NARROW STRIP OF ELASTIC

AND STITCHING ON THE PART OF THE GARMENT WHICH IS TO BE GATHERED .

GATHERING BY MACHINE

GATHERING BY MACHINE :---Adjust the machine for long stitches and loosen the upper tension

slightly . Now work two rows of machine stitch as explained earlier .

Distribute the fullness evenly by pulling both bobbin threads together .

GATHERING BY HAND

GATHERING BY HAND :--Fasten the thread securely and work two rows of running stitches

apart ( 1/ 8 " above and below the seam line ) Draw the ends of

threads until the section measures the desired length , and secured the


thread .

GATHERS AND SHIRRS

GATHERS AND SHIRRS

Gathering is an effective and decorative way of distributing over a given area . In

dressmaking gathers often used at yoke lines , waist lines , neck lines and upper


and lower edges of sleeves . On skirts gathers are set into a waist band . On

shirt sleeves gathers are set into cuffs and for puff sleeves , gathers are set into


armhole and into a band at the lower edge .

FLARES

FLARES
Flares are introduced usually in skirts for adding fullness and decoration . Sleeves can also be flared in a basic skirt is the difference between its measurements at the hem line and hip line circular skirts (made from a complete circle of the fabric ) have the maximum flare .

PINCH PLEATS

PINCH PLEATS :--These are used on curtains and draperies . The pleats are

spaced apart from each other and stitched partway down . Markings are

made for tucks . Finished width of the pleat can be about 2 1/4 ". So

you must allow 4 1/2 " extra material for each pleat . Space the tucks

and stitch each tuck from the top edge of the curtain .Next devide

the fullness of each tuck into three equal small pleats and baste them

together along the top and front edges . Press and machine the three

pleats together across their bottom ends .

CARTRIDGE PLEATS

CARTRIDGE PLEATS :---These are round pleats used as trimming for skirts and dresses and

are suitable on firm fabrics . Take a strip of material 1 1/2 to 2

times as long as the section of the garment which is to be trimmed

with pleats . Make markings deviding the garment section into a

number of evenly spaced markings on the long strip to the garment

matching the marking lines exactly . Do not press.

FAN PLEATS

FAN PLEATS :---These consist of narrow pleats which are wider at the bottom than at the top because they are made on circular skirts .

KICK PLEATS

KICK PLEATS :---This is actually a inverted pleat which has the fullness released

in the lower 6" to 8 " of the skirt .

INVERTED PLEATS

INVERTED PLEATS :--It is the opposite of box pleat . It is made up of two

knife pleats turned towards each other , so that the folds meet in the middle

on the right side of the garment .

BOX PLEATS

BOX PLEATS :---Two knife pleats turn the way from each other (one to the

left ) form a box pleat .

KNIFE PLEATS

KNIFE PLEATS :----They are usually about 1/2 " to 1 " wide and are turned

towards the same direction . The figure shows two knife

pleats tacked in position and markings for two more pleats

To form the third pleat make a fold along line C and bring this fold

to the right so as to lie over line C1 . Similarly the fourth pleat with

bring D over D1 . The distance C C1 is twice the width of the

finished pleat .

PLEATS

PLEATS

pleats are introduced usually at the waist line of skirts and dresses

to provide fullness evenly all around .One usually employees knife

pleats , box pleats ,inverted pleats alone are in combination . Other types

of pleats are kick pleats , cartridge pleats and pinch pleats . The

preparation of pleats is similar to that of tucks . The main difference

being that the pleats are not stitched all the way down . sometimes they

are stitched partway down the garment for flatness . To make each

pleat of you require twice the width of the finished pleat . So

if you want pleats touching each other all round the garment .

The amount of material needed is three times the finished width .

GROUP TUCKING AND SCALLOPED EFFECT

GROUP TUCKING AND SCALLOPED EFFECT :--Mark narrow tucks fairly close to each other stitch them and pressed to one side at right angles to the tucks ,mark lines at regular intervals for cross wise stitching on the first line stitch across the tucks in the direction they were pressed . On the second line stitch across the tucks after pressing them in the opposite direction . Continue stitching . alternating the direction of the tucks in successive rows .

CROSS TUCKING

CROSS TUCKING :---When rows of tucks are stitched along the fabric in both horizontal

and vertical directions , the decoration is called cross tucking . First

stitch the vertical tucks and press them to one side . then stitch the

horizantal tucks .

SHELL TUCKS

SHELL OR SCALLOPED TUCKS :---This is a very decorative tuck made by hand . Mark and crease the

fabric as for a straight tuck of about 1/4" width . On the line of

stitching mark uniformly spaced darts about 1/2 " apart .Stitch the

tuck using small running stitches . As you come to each dart take

two over cost stitches through the dart and pull tite , before

proceeding further with the running stitches .

PIPED OR CORDED TUCKS

PIPED OR CORDED TUCKS :---These are made by placing cording on the wrong side of the fabric at centre of tuck before stitching the tuck . stitching should be done close to carding .

PIN TUCKS

PIN TUCKS :--- There are tiny , dainty tucks used on body cloths and fine

blouses . They are usually less than 1/8 " wide .

TUCKS

TUCKS

A tuck is a fold of fabric stitched in place by running stitch or

machine stitch on the right side of the garment as a means of

1. Shaping the garment to the body ,

2. For holding in fullness or

3 .As a decorative finish .

Tucks can be used in groups or clusters and in graduated width . If

you are designing a garment with tucks deside on the position on

the tucks width of each tuck and the spacing between the tucks ,


regularity of tucks and even spacing are essencial to the beauty of

tucks . When calculating the amount of material that is needed ,

remember that each tuck calls for an allowances equal to twice its

finished width so far making a group of four tucks of 1/8 " finished

width , allow , allow 4 = 1 .

To stitch each tuck fold along middle so that stitching lines co -inside. Then stitch

along the markings . Cut the garment section only after completing the stitching of

the tucks . There are several methods of tucking .

DOUBLE POINTED DARTS

DOUBLE POINTED DARTS :---Double pointed darts should be stitched in two steps . Start from the middle where the dart is widest and stitch to one end , then go back to the middle and stitch to the other end . Make the stitches at the middle part over lap , by starting the stitches a little beyond
each time . the finish dart to to within 1/4 " of the stitching line at the middle section of the dart .
Dart should be pressed after stitching . The general rule is to press vertical darts towards centre front or centre back and
horizantal darts downward . For heavy fabrics , cut along the fold of darts to within one inch of the point and press them open .

SINGLE POINTED DARTS

PRINCIPALS OF BASTING AND STITCHING DARTS :----Carefully

transfer the dart marking of the paper pattern to the fabric . Find the

centre point .

1. On the wide end of the dart and make a fold from this point to the tip .

2. Of the dart , keeping the right sides of fabric together . Baste

exately along the stitching line markings after checking the fit of the

garment , the dart should be machine from the wide end to the narrow

end . tapering off to nothing at the point . The thread should be

fastened at the tapered ends with with a knot .