DARNING

Darning is that method in which new threads are supplied in

the place of thin or worn out woven once. It is a form of

hand weaving or an imitation of the process adopted in the

manufacture of fabrics .

FUNDAMENTAL RULES FOR DARNING :----

1. Prevent a whole from from forming by strengthening a thin place .

2. Begin at the left hand side of the part to darned because ,

(a ) It is easier to see any pattern that has to be repeated in the darn .

(b) The hand does not cover up the darn while it is in progress .

(c) The hand does not rub over the mending which might fray or

become rough looking .

3. Darns should be an irregular shape of , so as that the strain of

new threads is not born by the same line of threads so as to give

risk to fresh weaknesses . The diagonal shape is the most

practical .

4. Loop 's 1 / 10 th should be left to allow for shrinking . The ends of the thread are left hanging

1/4 " and not fastened off . the threads of the darn being so woven in as to make the fastening unnecessary .

5. The thread used should be as like the original as possible in color texture and stranding . The

general rule is silk on silk , wool on wool and cotton on cotton . Silk together with wool on wool

gives greater strength .

6.The darn must in no way strain the material or cause puckring . the work must be kept flat by

keeping the thumb on the thread as it is pulled through the material .

NEEDLES :---The needles used are longer than sewing needles and have longer eyes . this is so because

(a) A long needle can take up a greater number of stitches .

(b) A large eye makes it easier for threading with the particular thread .

POSITION OF NEEDLES :---Most darns are formed by rows of threads worked from the

chest and to the chest up rows - from the chest and down down rows - towards the chest .

THE HEDGE OR ' L ' TEAR :---The tear usually happens on the dresses or outer garments

and some sharp surface . The marerial tears with the thread . The corner is often irregular as

this is the place in tearing where the strain has been the greatest . As a rule

the selvedge threads give way less being stronger and the weft being weaker give way more .

Because of this the tear is very often longer but the weft threads and is often more frayed

and irregular .

MATERIALS USED :--- As in all darns the thread should match the

marerial in all respects as far possible and no .7 and no . 8 needles should be used . A selvedge

thread from the material

a sufficiantly strong will give the best result and make the darn less visible .

WORKING :----Draw the edges carefully with fishbone stitch . If the

material is fine and of a kind which frays badly , fasten the position with the wrongside upper

most over a piece of stiff paper or thin card -board , this makes a firm surface to work up on

and puckering is less likely to occur.

HOLDING OF WORK :--Hold the work as for darning a hole over the first and second

fingers with the thumb and third finger on top to hold the work in position .

METHOD :----As a general rule , the darn is worked on the

wrong side and the method illustrated in the diagram is suitable

for materials of medium thickness . Begin the darning weft way of the material

holding the work so that the wrap way of the threads lies along the finger .

COMMENCEMENT :--Working as for a thin place darn begin at the

left hand side , 1/4 " to 3 / 8 " to the left and above or below . Take up 1 , 2 , or

3 threads on the needle passing over the same amount and each row having

the same number of stitches . work within

a 1/4" or 3/8" beyond the tear . Turn the work round and work the

otherside in exactly the same manner to within 1/4" or 3/8 "

beyond the tear .

The thumb must always be kept on the slit when drawing the

thread through as this prevents un - ravelling and keeps

the darn flat . The space between the rows is equl to the depth of the stitch .

KNIFE - CUT OR BREAKFAST DARN :---This is generally the result of the careless use of a

knife which cuts across both weft and selvedge threads and in consequence requires careful

darning .

The cut may be at any angle .

MATERIAL USED :---Any kind of cotton which matches the material is suitable for practical

purposes . If a selvedge thread can be pulled out from the fabric itself and is sufficiently strong ,

it will give the best result . A fine darning needle no . 7 or 8 should be used .

PREPARATION OF DARN :---If the fabric is one which frays badly ,

it is sometime simple if the edge are carefully drawn together

with small fish-bone stitches not very closely worked using a veryfine cotton and needle .It this

stitch is used , the needle is inserted about 1 / 6 " from the end of the slit and from the wrong . It

is pulled through the right side . Insert the needle into the slit and bring it out

1/6" beyond the stitch on the opposite side . The following stitches

are worked in the same manner , always inserting the needle in to the slit and bringing it out 1/6

" out-side the edge of the slit . By

this means all the raw edges are kept on the wrong side . The stitches are removed when the

darn is complete .